Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter #217 - Sorry to Bring This Up Again ... But

Newsletter #217 - Sorry to Bring This Up Again ... But

14 Nov 2013

Details: Category: Newsletter Archives

OntarioWineReview Newsletter 217

November 2013

OntarioWineReview: Sorry to Bring This Up Again ... But
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Syrah, Sparkle, Chardonnay and a Sweetie
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: Four Special Events in November - and win tickets

NB: Due to time constraints there will be no PDF of the newsletter this week.

OntarioWineReview: Sorry to Bring This Up Again ... But

I’ve made this argument before and now after a very lackluster tasting of some Ontario wines (not Taste Ontario, in case you were wondering) I feel the need to renew my argument that the word “Quality” be struck from the VQA moniker … because it’s just not true for all cases so why stick the umbrella onto wines that lack the very quality VQA is “claiming” to stand for.

VQA, for those that don’t know, stand for Vintners Quality Alliance (please note the word ‘quality’) – maybe when the VQA was just starting out it was important to emphasize quality, so they stuck it in there, but these days when people see the word “Quality” they expect what’s going to be in the bottle be more than just drinkable.

But the word quality has no business being on the label, or as part of the moniker. The VQA was actually set up as a designation of origin; basically it was to guarantee that the grapes in the bottle come from where the say they do: Ontario. Nowhere does that imply quality. If you look at France (AOC) and Italy (DOC), the regions that the VQA is patterned after, there is no mention of quality anywhere, nor is there a guarantee of such (the Italians have a DOCG but that’s the next level up from DOC). AOC stands for “appellation d'origine controlee”and DOC is “Denominazione di origine controllata” … for those with rusty French or even barely passable Italian you’ll notice the word “quality” or the guarantee of such isn’t there – and nor should one there be.

There are times I can kind of understand why many Ontarians don’t drink Ontario wine: they’ve just been lied to for so long and they are tired of it – they are promised quality and not always getting it. The French and the Italians have got it right, they make no such promises, their only claim is that there’s wine in the bottle and that it’s from their respective countries – after that, you’re on your own.

As previously mentioned, the Italian system does have a level called DOCG – the ‘g’ stands for guarantee and they guarantee the wine is a quality product, tasted by a panel, and certified that the wine is representative of the area that it is from. You pay a little extra for wines with the DOCG designation, but that is to be expected: you want to make the step up, you’re going to pay for it.

The VQA, as a normal part of their accreditation of a wine, puts the wine through tests for impurities, alcohol, etc. – but they also have a tasting panel to go through (and some wines are refused based solely on this part of the process). If, as the VQA states, the designation of VQA is strictly about origin of the grapes then what is the tasting panel for? I’ll let you stew on that for a few moments.

In a recent on-line poll at OntarioWineReview.com 49% of responders said that quality should be removed from the acronym, while 4.9% didn’t even know what the letters stood for. In another poll, 13.4% thought VQA symbolized quality of the wine in the bottle; 3.5% thought it stood for Very Questionable Alcohol (I can only hope they were kidding).

But let’s turn our attention back to that tasting panel. I am going to assume that I have probably tasted more VQA wines than many of you – but I’m also going to assume that many of you have come across a bottle or two of VQA designated wine that you thought was Very Questionable Alcohol, and might have even wondered how it achieved VQA status. If you knew it was all about origin then you could forgive the VQA panel for passing it, after all if it’s all about where the grapes come from then buyer beware … But now if I told you a tasting panel was involved in passing that wine would you question the validity of that symbol? I know I do. I’ve not only questioned how a wine managed to pass but wondered how much money changed hands to allow it to do so. On the other side of the coin, I’ve tasted wines that have failed the panel and wondered what drugs those on the panel were smoking that day, as the wine has been spot on as to what it should be … maybe not enough money changed hands I guess.

And there is money involved. A wine can go through as many as three panels as long as the winery is willing to pay for it … I’ve even heard of wineries submitting the exact same wine after being given a failure only to get a pass on the second or third go around … can you say money grab? Certainly seems that way.

But all this musing was brought about, as mentioned, by a particular tasting I attended at which I tasted a number of faulty, ill-conceived wines that all had that VQA symbol on them – I had to wonder how they passed and if the panel has actually tasted the same wine I was tasting now. I had no doubt the grapes came from Ontario, but a stamp of approval by the tasting panel, that hard for me to believe – and I was not alone, my colleagues at the tasting were also miffed by the wines.

So if wines like these are going to pass, let’s ditch the tasting panel – let’s go back to the origins of VQA and ditch the word ‘quality’ from the name and use VQA as a place of origin only; which can only mean we have to change the acronym. If we want to establish a tasting panel a la Italy, let’s bring the letter ‘G’ into the mix, but if a winery isn’t looking for the guarantee of quality symbol let’s stop making them pay for something that can be so arbitrary. It’s hard to believe that a scientific lab like the one at the LCBO uses a tasting panel as a guide, it turns the whole process into a farce when bad bottles hit your table and mine.

If you have a good idea for an acronym to replace VQA send me your suggestion, either This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or on the OntarioWineReview facebook page.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Syrah, Sparkle, Chardonnay and a Sweetie

Big Head 2012 Syrah - $48.00 (W)
www.bigheadwines.ca

Here we have the Andrzej Lipinski signature of 100% dried grapes; but before you turn your nose up on this one listen up: the wine went through natural fermentation and was aged 6 and a half months in new cigar barrels from Eastern Europe … still not convinced? The wine is incredibly well balanced, combined a good year with drying which has given the wine a whopping 15.9% alcohol, that is barely noticeable. Nose is raspberry soda, smoky-vanilla and white pepper … Palate has spiced-strawberry and black pepper with plush fruit backing and some smoky character, all put together with a medium finish. A wine that needs to be tasted to be believed – this one shows some real nice finesse. Price: $48.00 – Rating: ****

Featherstone 2011 Chardonnay – Canadian Oak - $21.95 (W, L)
www.featherstonewinery.ca

There aren’t many wineries using Canadian oak, I can think of but a handful who put it on the label, while French, American and now Hungarian (or Eastern European) seem to be used judiciously throughout. This is a very pretty Chardonnay with lots of vanilla and toasty notes but also with a fair amount of fruit: peach and mac apple come to mind first … it’s all done in a gentle and subtle way in that typically Canadian-style of excuse-me oak (didn’t mean to bump into your fruit). Price: $21.95 – Rating: ****

Huff Estates 2010 Chardonnay – South Bay - $29.95 (W, L)
www.huffestates.com

The second of two county medal winners in the Chardonnay category at the 2013 Ontario Wine Awards … this Huff version took the Bronze. There’s really something pleasant here with butterscotch and spice riding a wave of mineral and acidity … it’s got a big mouthfeel and long finish – not surprising, considering it spend 14 months in French oak – of which 25% was new. The County is finally starting to show its dominance in the Chardonnay category, and this is a great place to start finding out why. Price: $29.95 – Rating: ****

Jackson-Triggs 2010 Brut Entourage Grand Reserve - $22.95 (W)
www.jacksontriggswinery.com

It wasn’t too long ago that I was at a tasting at Jackson-Triggs and someone asked Marco Piccoli (winemaker) if there was soon to be a Rosé in his bubbly line-up (which includes Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot as well) – he was cryptic when he said “we’ll see”. Well this ‘Brut’ is not officially a Rosé (by label anyway), but it sure could pass for one … The nose is floral and lightly raspberried with hints of vanilla, almond and lemonade. Palate has nice acidity (especially when you consider the heat of the 2010 vintage) with lovely honey, floral and citrus (in the form of lime rind). Nice mousse and a pretty in (light) pink colour makes this a very tasty sparkling. Price: $22.95 – Rating: ****+

Lailey 2009 Redacted - $25.00 / 200ml (W)
www.laileyvineyard.com

I hate to say it, but there are many problems with the VQA system and plenty of horror stories about why it’s not working. Let’s take this wine for instance – it is a non-VQA icewine-style wine because it did not pass the taste test part of the VQA panel … the lab results and the way it’s made is exactly following VQA rules for icewine; but because it didn’t taste like a typical icewine it did not pass. I won’t go any further in this forum, but suffice it to say when I tasted it I could not figure out what the big deal was about. Nose has a lovely strawberry jam aroma; the palate continues that way adding spiced cherry and good acidity with a long lovely finish … don’t be fooled by no VQA symbol, this one’s a beauty with or without. Price: $25.00 – Rating: ****+

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Video #43 – Foreign Affair 2011 The Conspiracy
Video #44 – Exultet 2010 Cru X Pinot Noir

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
The Life of a Cono Sur
Spain, Under-Priced and Under-Appreciated

On the Road with the Grape Guy
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Dinner and a Movie at Hillebrand
Primitivo Lunch

Lost and Found (blog):
(Wines that got "lost" in my cellar - some are Treasures others Trash … Find out what happened)
Lailey 2008 Zweigelt
Inniskillin 2006 Reserve Series Pinot Noir

Taste it Again Grape Guy (blog)
Find out what has happened to some of my favourites over the years
Stoney Ridge 2005 Cranberry wine

What I’m Drinking Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
November 9, 2013 – Vintages Release Report
In-Store Discoveries – November 9, 2013

Advertising

See below as to how you can win tickets to one of two Savvy events.

Advertising

Wine Event Spotlight: Four Special Events in November - win tickets to two of them

Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery is pleased to partner with War Child for a very special benefit on Friday, November 29th, 2013. This festive evening will feature an intimate performance by multiple award winning artist Tom Cochrane, joined by special guest Kathleen Edwards, and culinary delights created by Celebrity Chefs Anna and Michael Olson (Platinum Package) and Jackson-Triggs Estate Chef Tim Mackiddie (Gold and Silver Package). All proceeds from the event will go to support War Child, an internationally-recognized charity that provides humanitarian assistance to war-affected children in some of the most devastated regions of the world. Details can be found here.

Slow and Sinful Gala … Slow Food Prince Edward County’s third annual tribute to locally produced champagne-style wines, will be held on November 30th. Guests will be invited to circulate among small tables where some of the county’s best chefs and Loyalist College Culinary Arts students will be serving savory and sweet offerings paired with thoughtfully selected sparkling wines and specialty distillations. Little Bluff will delight with their up tempo dance music. For information on the Gala and Slow Food’s charitable activities and to purchase tickets for the event please visit http://www.slowfoodthecounty.ca/

Win a pair of tickets to one of two events … in Toronto and Ottawa

Join the Savvy Company for a special Wine Futures & Portfolio Tasting with Lailey's highly acclaimed winemaker & owner Derek Barnett featuring 'wine futures' from the incredible 2012 vintage. “We only offer our wines as futures in exceptional vintages. The first was 2007, then 2010 and now 2012. The wines are exceptional quality … and our 2012 wines will be stunning!” says Derek Barnett … This taste and buy event will be held November 21, 2013 in Toronto at Airship 37 in the Distillery District. Details of the event can be found here.
To win tickets This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. the answer to this skill testing question: Who is the winemaker for Lailey Vineyards? Deadline for entry is November 17 @ 11:59pm – Please put Lailey in the subject line.

20 plus wineries from the Twenty Valley wine region - located along the Niagara Escarpment - are returning to Ottawa for their 2nd annual Taste & Buy event, the event is called Outstanding in Their Fields and is being held November 27, 2013 at the Panorama Room - 2nd floor of National Arts Centre in Ottawa. There will be whites, reds, sparklings & dessert wines to be tasted and there will be a chance to buy them. Details of the event can be found here.
To win tickets This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. the answer to this skill testing question: Name one Twenty Valley winery?
Deadline for entry is November 21 @ 11:59pm – Please put 20 Valley in the subject line.

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of: he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges. He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes. Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

Psst, Pass It On … keep the good wine flowing. Forward this newsletter to your mom in Milton, your son in Smith Falls, or any other family member or loved one that you know needs good wine advice.

Socially Speaking …
Follow Michael Pinkus, the Grape Guy’s (almost) daily Tweets at http://twitter.com/TheGrapeGuy .
You can become a friend on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/mepinkus .
Those who are “Linked In” can find Michael at http://ca.linkedin.com/pub/michael-pinkus/14/704/4b8 .

To contact us with feedback, article ideas, comments, concerns or questions – email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. We look forward to hearing from you!