Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter #225

Newsletter #225 - Talking About a Revolution

20 Mar 2014

Details: Category: Newsletter Archives

OntarioWineReview Newsletter 225

March 2014

OntarioWineReview: Talking About a Revolution
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Something Old, Something New, Something Lost ... 7 wines for you
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: Dining and Music

OntarioWineReview: Talking About a Revolution

While at Cuvee a few weeks ago (which by the way was a marvelous event), it struck me what Ontario wineries would have to do if they wanted to finally be taken seriously and see the market open up in Ontario; it’s time to take a page out of the Arab Spring and from the Ukraine people: Revolution.

What was it that the young Ukraine woman said in the viral video, “we want to be free from the politicians who work only for themselves … we want to be free.” … Now I’m not saying we march in the streets over a bottle of wine, but it’s high time something was done to help Ontario wineries reach the Ontario people – that’s why I am saying it’s time for a revolution … and here’s how it could be started in just two actions.

"Don't you know, they're talkin' about a revolution
It sounds like a whisper"

As you may be aware Canada, and by extension Ontario, is not a revolutionary nation – our neighbours to the south revolted to form a country and had a civil war to keep it together. Here in Canada we were thrown together to keep the Americans out (not an auspicious start). We’re peace-lovers and peace-keepers, we don’t have guns at the ready to take over the government, nor do we think it our God-given right to have them and do so. We don’t like to make a lot of noise about things – in other words, we take it, we grumble and complain, but we take it. For example, this winter was brutal and long (and still not over), we all talked about moving to a warmer climate, permanently, but did we … no!

The mood in the room at Cuvee was seemingly jovial, but always with an undercurrent of discontent (there’s really no joy in Mudville these days, even when Mighty Casey comes up to bat). The facts are these: the government plays lip-service to the wine industry, but in the end does nothing – even the notion of farmer’s market sales doesn’t win over this crowd because they know it’s bogus and not feasible, it was thrown to them like a bone but the majority of them aren’t biting.

"You say you want a revolution - Well, you know
We all want to change the world
You tell me that it's evolution - Well, you know
We all want to change the world"

You have to understand what Cuvee is … it’s an event where the industry comes together to celebrate itself. They cart out what they believe are their best wines, chefs come out to plate their best food, and people dress up in their finest attire – it’s been touted in the past as “The Oscars” of the Ontario wine industry, and although the awards part has been removed the air of festivity still remains. But really, how festive can one really be when the face of the industry hasn’t changed … more and more wineries enter the market each year (and God bless ‘em) to take a bite out of the same piece of pie. Let’s face facts, the truth remains that the pie isn’t getting any larger with each passing year. The LCBO may expand programs (at the government’s behest) but it’s still the LCBO. The same shows and expos happen, but no wine gets “sold” there. The liquor monopoly may open new kiosks in grocery stores, but that changes nothing with regards to market access. The wine industry puts millions and millions of dollars into the Ontario economy in the form of taxes, employment and tourism and they keep getting the same dirty end of the stick.

"You say you got a real solution - Well, you know
We'd all love to see the plan"

My ideas are simple (if you’re American), but as a Canadian living in Ontario, these will seem like radical moves …

Step 1 … Fire the Wine Council – this useless bunch have not been able to lobby the government to move the yard sticks in Ontario for more freedom to access of the market … and that’s really what the wineries want – not subsidies and tax considerations on the sample wines they pour. Maybe fire is too strong a word. How about a performance guarantee or pay-for-play: meaning the hierarchy of the Council only gets their salary if they get the membership what it wants. An employee or representative is not motivated unless there’s some reward at the end of the term … you know those lawyer ads on TV that claim: “We don’t get paid unless we get money for you” – those guys are motivated, well the wineries should put the Wine Council on notice that they are under the same contract: we want to see certain goals accomplished or kiss your pay-day goodbye.

"Poor people gonna rise up - And get their share
Poor people gonna rise up - And take what's theirs"

Step 2 … Open a Store and Dare the Government to Take You to Court – it’s time for the wineries to stop pussy-footing around, get together and fight for what is fair: open market access to their own market. Right now they are fighting over the same piece of pie and they need to make a new pie or two, join forces, open a wine store together and dare those in power to fight them … what is going on is unconstitutional and it’s time to fight it. The Ontario government should be ashamed at the way they treat this business sector and things have got to change. If they’re not going to do it willingly it’s time to force their hand.

Look, change does not come because you want it, change comes due to actions: take Sunday shopping in Ontario as an example, had Toronto furrier Paul Magder and London book store owner Marc Emery not opposed the ban so fervently we might still not be able to buy that stereo on Sunday. And if not for Sam Sniderman, Boxing Day sales would still be held on the 27th. The end of days did not come due to these changes, people made money, freedom was upheld and we’ve all become accustomed to being able to shop on these days … in fact if they were now taken away we’d probably oppose that more vehemently than the original notion we opposed in the first place. (Video Documentary: Never on a Sunday)

The wineries of Ontario have got to stop hoping for “The Canadian Way” of lobbying and politicking and move to a more pro-active approach, if market access is what they really want … or are they just content to bitch about the weather while continuing to live in the cold … and what an appropriate metaphor that is. As my mama used to say: “It’s time to crap or get of the pot”

"Don't be afraid of your freedom!
I'm free to do what I want any old time
I said I'm free to do what I want any old time"

As a side note, when Bob Rae repelled the Sunday shopping ban in 1992 he was quoted as saying: “You have to recognize the culture of the province has changed, the economic life of the province has changed, and opinion and attitudes have definitely changed.” (Toronto Star, June 4, 1992). Time to apply that same philosophy to the Ontario wine industry.
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Clips of songs used in this newsletter:
Tracy Chapman - “Talkin’ Bout a Revolution” (1988)
The Beatles – “Revolution” (1968)
The Soup Dragons - "I'm Free"(1990)

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Something Old, Something New, Something Lost ... 7 wines for you

Cattail Creek 2012 Riesling, Creek Series - $14.95 (L)
www.cattailcreek.ca
If there is one thing the Creek is known for it’s Riesling – years ago they geeked out and made a number of single bottlings using different clones they grow on the property, and while they may never do that again it did show the building blocks they have for making good Riesling. 2012 was not considered a Riesling year but Cattail still managed to make one worth raving about. Nice mineral seam runs thru the wine with lemon, peach and apple nuances. Acidity is in good balance all leading to a medium length finish full of green apple. Price: $14.95 – Rating: ****

Flat Rock Cellars 2010 Chardonnay, Good Kharma - $16.95 (W)
www.flatrockcellars.com
Making great wine brings its own kind of kharma – and giving back has its own just rewards – a portion of sales from this Chardonnay goes to support the Ontario Association of Food Banks. As for the wine there’s a lot to get excited about here. The nose delivers aromas of vanilla, butter, straw and tangerine along with hints of cantaloupe. On the palate the vanilla and melon come thru along with citrus and some creamy buttery notes, that seem to be at odds with one another but it all works out well in the end. Price: $16.95 – Rating: ****

Foreign Affair 2010 Temptress - $44.95 (W)
www.foreignaffairwinery.com
This is quite the impressive wine. From the hot 2010 vintage comes the “reserve” wine that’s the step up from the Foreign Affair ‘Dream’. Still a Merlot dominated wine (69%) with Cabernet Franc (19%), Cabernet Sauvignon (6%) and Petit Verdot used for seasoning. This is a best barrel, longer in oak selection (16-20 months) … and a little higher concentration of dried fruit (40%). The nose seduces with black cherry, cinnamon, cassis and mocha … while the palate is what truly tempts with its rich mouth feel and black cherry-mocha notes. There’s a lovely sweet fruited entry that keeps all the way to the finish, which adds mineral-chalkiness to the lengthy ending ... but it’s the long lovely linger that’s the real temptress here and makes it such a beauty sip after sip after sip. Price: $44.95 – Rating: ****+

Lailey 2012 Syrah - $27.00 (W)
www.laileyvineyard.com
For years Ontario winemakers have been trying to perfect Syrah and winemaker Derek Barnett of Lailey has been making some of the best pure-Syrah in the province (think not Shiraz young man) … but this 2012 might be his best to date. Nose is meaty and smoky with the beauty of blueberry and black raspberry fruit mixed with white pepper. Palate brings the promise of the nose to fruition in all its smoky-meaty glory adding black pepper, black raspberry, blackberry and cassis in the fruit department which sticks around all the way to the finish. Also to be found on the tongue: spice and cocoa … and don’t forget the great acidity which keeps everything in check. Price: $27.00 – Rating: **** ½

Peller 2010 Cabernet Franc, Signature - $40.00 (W)
www.peller.com
I make no bones or beefs about my love of Cabernet Franc and this Andrew Peller Signature Franc from the hot 2010 vintage makes no beefs or bones about being a really good example of Cabernet Franc. The nose is pretty closed off at the moment, releasing only tobacco and raspberry aromas. The palate seems a little more giving with hints of chocolate amongst raspberry fruit and cigar-box-tobacco notes – mid-palate there’s also a little chewy element … it seems smooth and easy going at first but there is some tannin bite to the finish. This is a wine that’s age 10+ years with ease. Price: $40.00 – Rating: ****+

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Sparkling Wine Week
Video #63 – Thirty Bench Winemakers 2012 Riesling
Video #64 – Jackson Triggs 2011 Delaine Vineyard Syrah

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Cold is Back on the Menu – Here’s How to Warm Up
You Gotta Love New Champagnes

On the Road with the Grape Guy
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Nothing New This Week

Lost and Found (blog):
(Wines that got "lost" in my cellar - some are Treasures others Trash … Find out what happened)
Del-Gatto 2007 Bella Vigne Leon Millot / Foch

Taste it Again Grape Guy (blog)
Find out what has happened to some of my favourites over the years
Lailey 2009 Chardonnay - Niagara Peninsula

What I’m Drinking Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
Look for the March 29 release report coming soon

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Wine Event Spotlight: Dining and Music

NIAGARA WINE COUNTRY COMES TO DOWNTOWN TORONTO ... ROOTSTOCK is an annual Jackson-Triggs concert that allows all artists to appear on stage at the same time; to collaborate and interact in a unique concert event, combining fine food, wine, music and storytelling. Tom Power, host of CBC RADIO 2 MORNING, will host this very special concert featuring three of the artists appearing at the Jackson-Triggs 2014 Summer Concert Series: Steven Page, Alan Doyle and Lindi Ortega. March 29, 2014 at the Wintergarden Theatre Toronto. Details here.

Dining at Trius ... March 7 - 31 Escape the winter blues by indulging in a delectable 3-course lunch menu for $40 per person or 3-course dinner menu for $45 per person. Chef Frank Dodd has created two incredible menus to awaken your palate and treat your senses. It's for a limited time so book your delicious culinary adventure today. Reservations can be made here.

Get Fresh in the Valley ... Join the wineries of the 20 Valley as they celebrate spring in Niagara’s Twenty Valley Wine Country. The Get Fresh in the Valley passport entitiles you to sample new vintage and aromatic wines paired with fresh spring inspired dishes at 24 Twenty Valley wineries. As an added bonus, collect a recipe card at each winery to assemble the Get Fresh Spring Cookbook. April 5 & 6, 12 & 13 or 26 & 27 - Passports: $40.00 plus HST

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of: he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges. He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes. Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

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