Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter #236 - Screwcap Debate Comes to a Close

Newsletter #236 - Screwcap Debate Comes to a Close

21 Aug 2014

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OntarioWineReview Newsletter 236

August 2014

WineReview: Screwcap Debate Comes to a Close
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

WineReview: Screwcap Debate Comes to a Close

So last time out I re-opened the debate about closure, more specifically cork versus synthetic, but many of you wrote in asking about screwcap (Stelvin) closures and where the jury lies on that topic?

One of my favourite emails on the topic was sent to me by a former Australian winemaker now living in Canada, let’s call him Peter:

“Synthetics really have no place in winemaking. ‘Cork’ is a natural product; bark of the tree … synthetics are a waste of time that shouldn’t even be referred to as ‘synthetic corks’, in my opinion. They’re ‘closures’, ‘plugs’, ‘seals’… [I would] much rather see a Stelvin closure than a synthetic, and similarly would prefer to see a Stelvin over 80% of the corks out there that are cheap and nasty. Or go a completely different direction and have a Vinolok, especially on high end Rieslings and other whites if the winery can afford to use it! I’m curious to know where the general North American public acceptance on screw-caps lies – I imagine it’s different to back home (for me) where people don’t blink when they see an expensive wine under metal over bark: don’t assume that because it’s under Stelvin, it must be a ‘cheap’ wine.”

Well Peter, I would have to say that done are the days (for the most part) of screwcap being the sign of a cheap wine – sure there are still some pockets of the world (and some people) that won’t except screwcap for quality wine, but those are the ones I feel sorry for. They’ll never experience great New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (or about 95% of New Zealand wine for that matter) and they are cutting themselves off from some pretty awesome Aussie stuff too; I’d almost hazard a guess that between 65-75% of all Kiwi and Oz wine are now cracking the cap instead of popping the cork, and that number seems to be rising all the time..

I’d also have to say that my observational evidence alone is pretty strong in favour of the Canadian industry being pro-screwcap. During my recent Riesling tasting for Quench (formerly Tidings) magazine, I tasted some 70+ Rieslings from across the country, I needed a corkscrew for a grand total of 7 of those wines, and that includes the older vintages, which were exclusively cork and made up about 20% of the tasting. How far and how quick we have come.

Screwcap for aromatic whites seems to be sweeping this country and it also seems to be the closure for more and more red wines crossing my path, and price point does not seem to be so much of an issue.

My mind on the cap was made up a number of years ago. I have written a couple of articles about closures for Tidings (now Quench) magazine, one was about the debate between corkers and screwers (2009). One of the proponents of screwcap I spoke with at the time was early adopter Ed Madronich, owner of Flat Rock Cellars, he had this unique take on the subject: “Imagine that cork never existed, everything was under screwcap and this salesman comes along and says, ‘I have this new closure, it’s called a cork. It’s gonna ruin 10% of your wine, make it taste musty like wet cardboard and ruin the fruit flavours. But it makes a great popping sound when you open it – so switch.’ – Would you switch to cork?”

At the same time Paul Bosc Jr., of Chateau des Charmes, was more introspective and cautious about the issue: “there’s a place for everything, we don’t believe that screwcaps are any better than cork or vice versa, generally. That being said, I’m open to whatever the future holds. But cork has been around for thousands of years, think of the longevity of that product. Now think of all the advances we’ve made in other fields, VHS beat out Beta which was then made extinct by DVD; CD supplanted the LP which was taken over by digital downloads; you have to be open to the future and changing technology, but if I were a betting man (which I am not), I wouldn’t be so quick to write the obituary for the cork, if anything, I expect it to make a comeback. I think the screwcap is the one more vulnerable to technological innovation.”

Dissing screwcap seems to be passé these days and even back then it was making major in-roads into mainstream acceptance; but what about my personal findings? I obviously have experience with these closures and open more wine in a year than the average person (it’s the nature of the job); but it was this little taste test I did in 2013 for Tidings sealed the deal for me:

“Three Reviews for the same wine … Henry of Pelham 2005 Reserve Riesling

Original 2007 review:
A deliciously smooth appley-peachy number. There’s apples, pears and citrus on the nose, and as it moves through your mouth you’ll find the apple in the front and peach at the back.

Cork (Jan. 2013): Revealed in stages – lots of petrol, green apple skin and dried apricot on the nose, flavours of lemon pith with a nice lime finish and lively acidity … an hour later petrol is the prominent aroma with lemon peel and bitter notes on the finish.

Screwcap (Jan. 2013): Revealed in stages – muted petrol, tight and less expressive nose, reductive qualities make it unpleasant to sniff, on the palate the lemon and lime meld together and the acidity even seems muted … an hour later the petrol aromas are lower than on the cork closed wine, flavours of lemon juice with pleasant acidity.”

Seems to prove what Paul Bosc Jr. said in his 2009 interview: “Screwcap is a snapshot of the moment, it captures the wine in that stage of its development.”

Now let’s return to Peter’s (former winemaker from Australia) email as he reports on one of his own personal findings: “Nothing quite like seeing a sensational 15-20+ year old Clare Valley or Eden Valley Riesling aged perfectly under [the correct type of] Stelvin… especially when you have the same wine under cork beside it. You don’t even need to taste the cork-closed bottle; the colour usually says it all.”

There’s no debate Down Under and it’s hard to make a case for the contrary here either. I would have to say the screwcap-debate ship has sailed; screwcap seems to be here to stay so getting used to it might be in order. The best part: there’s isn’t anything wrong with that. There’s room and a place for screwcap at the table as well as cork. Any questions?

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines

Closson Chase 2011 Pinot Noir, KJ Watson Vineyard - $35.00 (W)
www.clossonchase.com
Wow … usually it’s a Chardonnay from Closson that catches my eye (or should I say palate) at the annual County in the City tasting, but this year it was this special Pinot that blew me away. Really light in colour, so much so that it’s just this side of a Rosé. Nose is raspberry and sour cherry with a pretty perfumed note that lures you in for that first sip, then you just can’t stop: vanilla, spice, raspberry and cran-cherry; really flavourful … at first glance you wouldn’t think this wine would pack all that flavour and excitement, but as mama once said, “looks can be deceiving.” Price: $35.00 – Rating: ****+

Fielding 2013 Riesling, Lot No. 17 - $27.95 (W)
www.fieldingwines.com
I’ve had Lot 17 Riesling before, but nothing prepares you for the beauty that lies under the cap of this 2013 version. Aromas and flavours meld perfectly together, and for those of you who like acidity in your Riesling, this one has it in spades. Pear and peach bring the fruit, while the minerality helps the wine to sing on the palate, working in harmony with the acidity to give you that full-on Niagara Bench Riesling experience. And at only 10% alcohol two or three bottles in an afternoon will help you get to know this Lot 17 a lot better. Price: $27.95 – Rating: **** ½

Hinterland 2013 Borealis - $22.00 (W)
www.hinterlandwine.com
Those who love Gamay as much as I do now have a new way to enjoy it … with bubbles. Jonas, owner and winemaker at Hinterland, has charmat-methoded 100% Gamay Noir from Niagara and turned it into a fresh, fruity strawberry-black cherry tongue tickler … but this is no ordinary bubbly brew; it spent 45 days in tank with daily lees stirring – and while the palate practically demands you to keep sipping, the nose proves to be very sniff-worthy too. Price: $22.00 – Rating: ****+

Norman Hardie 2011 Pinot Noir, Niagara Unfiltered - $39.00 (W)
www.normanhardie.com
Norman Hardie has a new philosophy when it comes to his Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, and it came to him via New York: no longer are County and Niagara wines priced differently, now your choice is based on what you like not what you feel you can afford – “price should never be an issue,” says Norm. Thus both Pinot and Chard, Niagara and County are line-priced at $39.00. While that seemingly makes the choice easier, I think it makes it more difficult, because the wines coming out of Hardie’s place continue to be very good. Take this Niagara Pinot for instance, nose has pretty violet, cherry and strawberry, while the palate has wonderful cran-cherry, good acidity and a sweetly fruited mid-palate and fine tannins on the finish … all this means is that the wine is ultimately delicate and delicious – now how do you choose if they’re both are this way? Price: $39.00 – Rating: ****+

The Old Third 2013 Golden Russet, Cuvee Yquelon - $19.95 (W)
www.theoldthird.com
There is so much story to tell here that I’m not sure I can fit it all in. First the name, Cuvee Yquelon – Yquelon is the town where winemaker Bruno’s grandfather used to make cider and calvados in France. The original plan was to get a ton of apples and make a small batch of traditional method cider (yes, as in Champagne method) with a 3 month minimum on lees, in honour of said grandfather. Fact is they got more than triple the amount of apples and made 4000 bottles – but the results are simply delicious and something you just have to try. A refreshing 9.5% alcohol with great subtle apple flavour and those sexy, delicate Champagne-style bubbles. Price: $19.95 – Rating: **** ½

Quai du Vin 2012 Chardonnay - $13.50 (W)
www.quaiduvin.com
Who woulda thought that a winery located in St. Thomas, Ontario, established in 1971, could make such a beauty of a Chardonnay. These 10-20 year old vines delivered fruit that was then aged 13 months in 60% new 100% French barrels … the result is smoky vanilla, grilled peach, with a hint of butterscotch all with a nice weight on the palate. For this kind of quality you’d expect this to be in the high 20’s price-wise, which is why you should hang on to your glass when I tell you it’s a mere 13.50 – can you say “buy by the case” … I knew you could. Price: $13.50 – Rating: ****

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Regular Weekly Videos
Video #96 – Henry of Pelham 2012 Family Tree Red
Video #97 - Kacaba 2011 Terrace Vineyard Syrah

Sparkling Celebration Week (August 4-10, 2014):
Monday - Coyote's Run 2011 Sparkling Chardonnay
Tuesday - Creekside 2011 The Trad
Wednesday - Hinterland 2013 Borealis
Thursday - KEW Vineyards 2011 Blanc de Noir
Friday - The Old Third 2011 A la Volee
Saturday - Huff Estates 2012 Cuvee Janine
Sunday - A Pair of Ciders
Subscribe here to catch all the videos

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
The Weird, The Wacky, The Wonderful
Visitors from Down-Under

On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Six Barrels for Six Chefs (8th Annual)
California Wine Fair 2014 (Toronto)

NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog): the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted)
Taste It Again: Fielding 2007 Red Conception
Lost & Found: Cave Spring 2007 Gamay Estate

NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
August 16 - Report Available Now
August 30 - coming soon

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Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

The Pinot Affair Returns (4th Annual) … It's that time of year again: Niagara wineries want you to have an affair with Pinot Noir. 10 wineries showcase some of their best Pinots for you to fall in love with. October 18th & 19th, 10am-5pm – tickets are $40 and can be found here.

Peller Party in the Vineyard … Winning the 2014 Winery of the Year has put Peller in a celebratory mood, so dust off your Stetson and cowboy boots to Party in the Vineyard at Peller Estates Winery on September 13, from 5-10 pm. Line dance the night away with a boot-stomping country DJ, up-and-coming opening act, and Juno award-winning artist Brett Kissel! Tickets are $39 per person plus HST.

Calling All Garlic Lovers … Toronto Garlic Festival is coming Sunday, September 21, 2014 at Evergreen Brick Works. Stock up on rare heirloom varieties while tasting delicious garlic dishes prepared by local chefs. Find all the details by clicking here. Also check out the new The Garlic Map – Available here

NJF – Niagara Jazz Festival - August 22 – 24 at various venues around the region … check out all the details here.

Red White & Blues in the County is back … Fans of Canadian blues will be treated to a fantastic late summer weekend at four of the most picturesque Prince Edward County Winery Estates; featuring multi-Award-winning performers such as Soulstack, Steve Strongman, Jack de Keyzer and Al Lerman. It all begin September 12 and runs to the 14. See all the details right here.

Niagara Jazz Festival Launch Party @ Stratus - Friday August 22: Featuring the Brownman Electryc Trio and the Alistair Robertson Quartet. Sip, munch and groove with Stratus. Doors open at 6:30 pm. Admission includes one glass of wine. Tickets $35. Buy your way in here.

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