Newsletter #240 - What Could Possibly Go Wrong?

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OntarioWineReview Newsletter 240 October 2014

• WineReview: What Could Possibly Go Wrong?  (News from Around the World of Wine)
  

• Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
  

• Bi-Weekly OWR Updates:  Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

• Wine Event Spotlight:  See What's Going on in Wine Country

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WineReview:  What Could Possibly Go Wrong?  (News from Around the World of Wine)

Last week there were rumblings that the government was so in need of money that they were entertaining the idea of selling a 75% share in the LCBO to Ontario's largest union and Onyx Corporation for some 11 billion dollars.  Now I know I've spoken critically of the LCBO in the past and how we need privatization in some form or another in this province to help our wineries be competitive and get better selection, but I'm very leery of this move ... Reminds me of the 407 sale that was so good for government coffers at the time but now it seems the government has lost total control of the highway ... And what could possibly go wrong by putting a monopoly in private hands (hello Beer Store).  The details of the sale story can be found right here.

As for other bits and pieces of news that I have found interesting over the past few months let’s take a look:

What’s in a Name … “As Europe and the United States pursue a lofty vision of a free trade pact that removes tariffs and eases regulatory burdens, it's not just disputes over automobile safety and digital privacy that are creating tensions.  It is wine and cheese. And the sausage that goes with it.  European leaders say they can't allow cheese produced outside Italy to be passed off as Parmesan. Feta? That's only from Greece. If a wine label says Chateau, they say, it must be fermented in France.”  Read the full story here. 

China Looks to Make a Grape Move … “By offering tax breaks to winemakers, Ningxia wants to produce wine worth 100 billion yuan ($16.3 billion) by 2020, or roughly 4-1/2 times the contribution of its entire farming sector to gross domestic product last year, said Cao Kailong, deputy director of the region's forestry ministry.  Successfully swapping coal for wine as China shifts to a greener and more sustainable model of development would position Ningxia as the example of how to make the leap from an "old" to a "new" economy, said Shen Minggao, a Citibank economist.”  More can be found, right here. 

The New Cotton is Grapes … “Six inmates of Mendocino County Jail are picking grapes for Barra of Mendocino. They work alongside the winery's regular crew and are also paid by the bin.  "At first they weren't picking enough, so we had to pay them minimum wage, which in California is $9 an hour," owner Martha Barra told Wine Searcher. "Our other guys were picking circles around them. They have gotten faster. They're doing just fine."  Barra and Mendocino County Sheriff Tom Allman came up with the idea when she was desperate to get people to pick the 175-acre vineyard she and her husband own in Redwood Valley, about 40 miles north of Sonoma County. Mendocino County, the northern limit of what most consider California Wine Country, is a major producer not only of wine grapes, but also of medical marijuana.”  Get the dirt by clicking here. 

Weather Works Miracles for Bordeaux … “After months of cool, rainy weather that brought the prospect of a poor grape harvest, winemakers in Bordeaux are looking forward to exceptional vintages thanks to the Indian summer.  Antoine Médeville, a leading winemaking consultant who advises many red wine producers in Médoc, part of the Bordeaux region, said: "We're making a spectacular recovery. This September sunshine is a fantastic piece of luck." … Winemakers are hoping the sunshine will last long enough for them to be able to delay picking red wine grapes until the last possible moment, allowing the heat to burn off their acidity. White wines benefit from acidic grapes but not reds, which need riper, fruitier-tasting grapes.”  How will the red grapes fare? Check it out here. 

From the Police Blotter in Italy … “According to Italian police, a wine expert who had obtained fake Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino labels and was able to falsify certification in the region’s wine database, was selling lower quality local wine as bulk supplies of the coveted red to unwitting local producers.  “It’s the biggest fraud ever carried out in the agricultural and food sector,” Siena’s police chief Luca Albertario said.  Had it succeeded, it would have resulted in fake Brunello di Montalcino wines “ending up on the tables of half the restaurants in the world,” Mr Albertario added.”  Check out the scene of the crime. 

For Your “Books To Read List” … “Romanée-Conti — a legendary French vineyard — produces one of the most elegant and extravagantly-priced wines in the world. In January 2010, proprietor Aubert de Villaine received a threat to his livelihood, if not his life: Pay more than 1 million euros in ransom, or his Burgundy vines would be poisoned.  Maximillian Potter first wrote about this plot for Vanity Fair and has now authored a book called Shadows in the Vineyard: The True Story of the Plot to Poison the World's Greatest Wine.”  Read the Interview then add the book to your list.

Champagne Sits at the Crossroads … “Global shipments of champagne have grown from 33.4 million bottles in 1950 to 304 million bottles in 2013. More than half the sales are in France, and Australia is the sixth-largest export destination, but sales have been flat for some time, and in France they have fallen.  In 2008, it was decided to include another 40 villages in the region, equating to between 2000 and 5000 hectares of extra land. This attracted criticism, although the land has always been considered part of Champagne, Le Mailloux says.  At the time of the French Revolution in the late 1780s, Champagne covered 65,000 hectares. By the arrival of phylloxera - the pest that devastated France's vineyards in the late 19th century - there were still 50,000 hectares in Champagne.”  How will Champagne bubble their way through, read the rest here. 

Which is the Booziest State … “No state or district drinks more wine per capita than the country's capital. And it's not particularly close, either. Residents of Washington D.C. drink more than half a glass of wine per day on average, or roughly 25 percent more than any other state  — though comparisons between an urban city and entire states are statistically questionable. Next are New Hampshire, which is responsible for just over 0.42 glasses per person, per day, Massachusetts, which consumes just under 0.35 glasses per person, per day, and Vermont, which polishes off just under 0.34 glasses per person, per day. Last are West Virginia, Mississippi, and Utah, which drink a paltry 0.08, 0.07, and 0.06 glasses per person, per day, respectively.”  Get into the spirit and click here for the full story.  

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  New and Noteworthy Wines

Domaine Queylus 2011 Merlot-Cabernet Franc “La Grande Reserve” - $60.00 (W)
www.queylus.com
The 2010 was just a Village-style blend due to vine age and quality (as perceived by the winemaker) but given another year the vines have given him the profile he’s looking for and now this 66/33 Merlot/Franc blend is Grand Reserve quality.  Aromas hit the right notes of raspberry, blueberry, vanilla and spice; while the palate delves into the realm of tobacco leaf, vanilla bean, black raspberry and hard spice.  There are also big tannins and a smoky middle to look forward to.  Wine shows power with an element of finesse.  Price: $60.00 – Rating: ****

Featherstone 2012 Merlot, Red Tail - $ 19.95 (W, L)
www.featherstonewinery.ca
Best be liking the 2012 (and 2013) Merlots from Ontario because 2014 will be in very limited supply (due to that nasty winter we had).  This Red Tail version was in oak just under a year (say about 10 months) and was treated with kid gloves from the get go: first it was the hand-picking then the hand-sorting and onto the small batch fermentation.  It has all made for a very mighty fine Merlot under the hood … aromas are stoked in blueberry and raspberry along with elderberry, cassis, mocha and hints of wild flowers.  Palate is supple and silky with blueberry, cherry, anise, hints of herbal, gritty spices and good weighted tannins … all combined it manages to keep things exciting in the glass and in the mouth.  Price: $19.95 – Rating: ****+

Hidden Bench 2010 Pinot Noir, Locust Lane Vineyard - $48.00 (W)
www.hiddenbench.com  
I have all the gory details at my fingertips:  brix at harvest, residual sugar, bottling date, vine age, oak treatment, but here’s what I think you care about:  Aromas have that typical Pinot earthiness along with black cherry and some minerality … on the palate you’ll find complexity and a plethora of flavours including cranberry, black cherry, spiced plum and a weighty mid-palate, more than you’d expect from Pinot anyway – and then there’s the lovely lingering finish.  For you geeks out there, the answers to the above questions are as follows (in order):  21.1-22.5; 0.39g/L; April 5, 2012; 6 years; 100% French – 33% new.  For the rest of you:  Price: $48.00 – Rating: ****+  

Hillebrand 2013 Rosé, Trius - $15.95 (W, L)
www.triuswines.com
The big change here is the clear bottle to make it stand out, and stand out it does.  The Trius team has achieved a truly eye catching rosé colour (light salmon) using Syrah, Gamay, Merlot and Malbec … had I tried this earlier in the year it would have made my rosé video series; it still might make a video review before the end of the year.  Nose is all-day sniffable with raspberry, cherry, lime and apricot that shines through before the palate shows off its refreshingly dry finish and great fruit in the form of raspberry and strawberry pith which helps out with the sweet-ish fruit adding a pleasant little bitterness to the finish.  According to winemaker Craig McDonald Gamay adds the fruitiness while Shiraz kicks in some white pepper, an unexpected element in a rosé.  Complex yet delicious.  Price: $15.95 – Rating: ****+

Jackson-Triggs 2011 Pinot Noir, Grand Reserve - $24.95 (W)
www.jacksontriggswinery.com
Maybe I’m a little late to the party on this one, but alas not all of these can be as timely as I would like, so if you have some in your cellar this review still applies.  Jackson-Triggs is not the winery you first think about when Pinot Noir comes to mind, but with this version they’re making a case to change that.  The nose has black raspberry and cherry which helps to mask cinnamon and vanilla elements that appear to be shy but definitely present.  Flavours start with white pepper before revealing sour black cherry and cassis with hints of vanilla and a long spiced linger on the finish.  Price: $24.95 - Rating: ****

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) –  OL (On-Line).

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Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Regular Weekly Videos

Video #103 – KEW Vineyards 2011 Old Vines Chardonnay

My Personal Pinot Affair - Pinot Week (October 13-17) ...
Day 1 - Closson Chase 2011 KJ Watson Vineyard
Day 2 - Coyote's Run 2012 Red & Black Paw Vineyard
Day 3 - Domaine Queylus 2011 Reserve du Domaine
Day 4 - Leaning Post 2010 Pinot Noir
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NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Malbec, Malbec, Malbec
Alive and Kaiken
Giving Thanks to Pinot Noir

On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Generation Riesling, German Wine Tasting

NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog):  the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted) 
Taste It Again:  Thirty Bench 2007 Red (again)

NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
October 11, 2014 - missed tasting due to travel
October 25, 2014 - coming later this month

Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

The Pinot Affair Returns (4th Annual) … It's that time of year again:  Niagara wineries want you to have an affair with Pinot Noir.  10 wineries showcase some of their best Pinots for you to fall in love with.  October 18th & 19th, 10am-5pm – tickets are $40 and can be found here.

The Third Annual Grape Escape at Mastronardi in Lake Erie North Shore happens October 18, 2014 starting at 8pm … see what happening by clicking here.

Wrapped up in the Valley ... November 1 & 2, 8 & 9, 15 & 16 details can be found right here.

1st Annual Closson Road Clam Bake! ... At 4pm on October 25th "an unforgettable evening of wine from the Hinterland Wine Company and seafood imported and prepared by 2-time North American oyster shucking champion John Bil.  All the details can be found here.

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