Newsletter #207 - The Man with One Name
27 Jun 2013- Details
- Category: Newsletter Archives
|
OntarioWineReview Newsletter 207 ... June 2013 |
 |
- OntarioWineReview: The Man with One Name
- Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Three Francs, One Syrah and a Savvy B
- Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Weekly Wine Video + More
- Uncorked and Decanted: Wine Country Ontario Launches a Contest
- Wine Event Spotlight: 4 Events - Niagara and Toronto
OntarioWineReview: The Man with One NameThe world has seen plenty of people who have gone by one name: Madonna, Prince, Sting, Napoleon, Khan, Spock, Jacob & Edward (usually in reference to teams) – so well-known are these folks that the mention of that one name brings immediate recognition. There have also been those whose mere mention makes people stand up and take notice, or in the case of EF Hutton shut up and listen (“When EF Hutton talks, people listen). Here in Niagara, within winemaking circles, there is one such individual: Thomas Bachelder … known simply as “Thomas”. No way could he go by his initials, TB, as that sounds like a disease, although his love of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir has become infectious spawning Chardonnay Festivals (i4C) and Pinot Affairs. To refer to him by his last name, Bachelder, would almost seem disrespectful, he’s just too jovial to go by something so formal. In conversations “Thomas” is the only syllable you need to refer to the man; and only if you’re talking about someone other than Mr. Bachelder would you need to use a last name so as not to confuse your listen (for instance Tom Green, winemaker from Diamond Estates) … Thomas Bachelder has achieved one-name-status and it’s well deserved.
Just last week I had the pleasure of spending the afternoon with Thomas (and his wife / business partner Mary) trying the newest Chardonnays in his line-up from Oregon, Burgundy and Niagara – plus the inaugural vintages of his Pinot Noirs from the same three regions. Thomas worked in all three regions at one time or another in his career as winemaker, culminating in him taking charge of the much lauded Le Clos Jordanne project here in Niagara, he helmed this endeavor from inception to just a few years ago when he finally decided to strike out on his own to fulfill a dream of having his own label. But instead of making wine in only one place he gave himself the daunting challenge of making wine in all three of his beloved regions.
The Oregon Offerings: Last year’s demand for the Oregon Chardonnay was so great that Thomas rolled his single vineyard offering into his “Village” wine … for the 2011 vintage wines he finished and bottled the wines before such a decision could even be contemplated, so as to preserve his original vision. The 2011 Chardonnay, Oregon ($29.95) is a mixed bag of aromas and flavours, from smoke, mineral and baked peach on the nose to white butter and mineral stoniness on the palate … it’s a touch fat in the mouth, but with lovely flavour (*** ½). The 2011 Chardonnay, Johnson Vineyard – Oregon ($44.95) was much more intense with a vanilla, butter, peach pit and hint of spice on the nose while the palate adds spiced-pear, baked apple and peach to what was already there ... all with a cinnamon-spice linger (****+).
Interesting to note that all of the Bachelder Chardonnay, no matter the region, are made in precisely the same manner: 17-18 months in barrel with less than 20% new wood – thus allowing the expressions of the region to shine through instead of any winemaker trickery. Thomas’ philosophy on the Chardonnay is simple: “You have to get out of the way of the whites.”
The Oregon Pinot Noirs, of which there are two, come from the same vineyards as the whites. The 2011 Pinot Noir, Oregon ($34.95) has nice fruit on the nose while the palate proves to have mineral and earthy notes along with cranberry and strawberry (*** ½+). The tasting went a little off the rails when Thomas pulled out his Johnson … Vineyard from Oregon; if you have not already picked up on it the humour level got a little puerile at this point in the tasting, as the “Johnson” jokes flew fast and furious around the room (there were 4 of us tasting), it all culminated in Mr. Bachelder remembering when he first started the project and he remarked “if I could get U.S. distribution, I’d drag my Johnson all over the U.S.” Be it phallic or not the U.S. should be very happy to see Bachelder’s Johnson 2011 Pinot Noir ($44.95), a nose that’s full of floral/violet with nice cherry aromas; the palate is sexy with lots of red fruit a la cherry and strawberry along with spiced-cranberry all with a nice medium length finish (it’s really hard to write / read all this and take it seriously, but this is one serious Pinot; maybe one of the best I have tried from Oregon.) - ****+.
The Burgundy Offerings: Starting with the Chardonnays, 2011 Cotes de Beaune – La Grande Chatelaine ($34.95), the nose was full of both lime and lemon pith while the palate added stoniness to the citrus, nicely balanced with a medium length finish (****). The other Burgundy Chardonnay we tried was the 2011 Puligny-Montrachet – En Corvee de Vignes ($63.00), this one goes down so easy with its mineral, pear and peach, rich succulent fruit with vanilla nuances and generous citrus-vanilla linger (****+) … this was the only wine that did not follow the Bachelder formula for making great Chardonnay, no new oak was used and only two barrels were made, hence a choice had to be made as to what the two barrels would be and Thomas choose a 1 and 2 year old wood for the job so as not to overwhelm the fruit with too much new oak.
Thomas paused before we moved onto the Burgundian Pinot to address his rather simple looking labels: “we’re trying to look old world, when in fact we’re two-thirds new world.”
First up on the Pinot front was the 2011 Cotes de Nuits Villages – Aux Montagnes ($34.95), plenty of cherry along with good tannin grip and a palate that shows off mineral amongst the cherry but also sweet fruit seems to materialize through those harsh tannins (*** ½+). The 2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges – La Petite Charmotte ($53.95) has spiced cranberry and cherry with the added complexity of red licorice/anise and mineral … “Petite” only in name (***).
The Niagara Offerings: As for the Niagara based wines I hope it’s not my bias coming through, but not only did they compare favourably to the other region wines, they seemed to outshine them. All wines are linked back to the OntarioWineReview website for a full review; the wines are:
2011 Chardonnay, Niagara ($29.95)
2011 Chardonnay – Saunders Vineyard ($44.95)
2011 Chardonnay – Wismer Vineyard ($44.95)
2011 Pinot Noir – Lowrey Vineyard ($44.95)
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Three Francs, One Syrah and a Savvy BCasa Dea Estates 2010 Adamo - $39.95 (W)
www.casadeaestates.com
If I told you that everyone and his cocker spaniel were making wine using some form of drying method, I would not be far off … here in Ontario it is becoming a trend to dry out your grapes and enhance the wine. This one is the first I have heard of a county winery doing what has become quite common-place in Niagara. The method comes from the Veneto region of Italy and is known as appassimento. This 100% Cabernet Franc has been dried over the course of 5 weeks in a natural way (instead of the de rigeur movement of using old tobacco kilns), then aged 2 years in older oak barrels. The result of the drying bumps the grapes from 22 brix to 28 brix (sugar level) … higher sugar brings out the potential for higher alcohol (this one sits at 15.2%). Lots of big dried and fresh cherry fruit here with hints of tobacco and chocolate all balanced with some excellent spice. Intensely flavoured this is one really good wine. Price: $39.95 – Rating: ****+
Creekside 2012 Sauvignon Blanc – Backyard Block - $17.95 (W, L)
www.creeksidewine.com
Here’s something that’s got an interesting story to tell. Creekside has made a name for themselves with a variety of grapes: Shiraz, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc … but this is the first time they’ve taken grapes from their own backyard (estate) and singled them out in a bottle of Savvy B. There’s a nice intensity to the fruit with lovely melon along with the typical grassiness all culminating in a long tangerine finish. Available at the LCBO in July with only 350 cases made in total, and for a wine this tasty that’s not a lot, so hop to it and get some soon. Price: $17.95 – Rating: ****
Hinterbrook 2010 Cabernet Franc Reserve - $40.00 (W)
www.hinterbrook.com
This wine ranks in my top 5 Cabernet Francs of 2010 … The nose is delightfully red fruit dominated: raspberry, strawberry and red currant with a lovely red licorice bit of whimsy thrown in. The palate sticks to the Cabernet Franc playbook with black raspberry and tobacco then tosses in strawberry, red currant and a pleasant bit of spiciness … but the coup de gras here the strawberry rolled in cocoa finish. Simply irresistible. Price; $40.00 – Rating: **** ½
Lailey 2010 Cabernet Franc - $25.00 (W)
www.laileyvineyard.com
Can anything top the wondrous ‘Unfiltered’ Cabernet Franc from Lailey (released last year)? I doubt it, but since that one is sold out you might want to consider it’s younger brother who still knows how to pack a wallop. A lovely spiced black fruit nose and a palate that doles out cedary-pepper, cigarbox and tobacco-spice. This one still needs a little time for the fruit to emerge but it’s a fine drinkable wine right now. Price: $25.00 – Rating: ****
Southbrook 2010 Syrah – Whimsy: Tall, Dark & Spicy - $34.95 (W)
www.southbrook.com
The name of this wine sounds like a Sylvia Day novel and might benefit from prefacing its name with “50 Shades of …”. But this wine is quite appropriately named just the way it is: there’s a seam of spice that runs right down the center and never gives up. But it manages to compliment everything in its path: blueberry, cassis, wisps of smoke and subtle white pepper. Watch out, this one just might have you ripping off your bodice; which would then make this wine what the Aussies call, “Ripper Stuff.”. Price: $34.95 – Rating: ****
Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: On the Road, International Wine Notes and moreThe Return of the Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now
Video #9 – Strewn 2011 Gewurztraminer, Terroir
Video #10 – Ridgepoint 2010 Merlot Cabernet Aglianico
NEW - Ottawa Life – International Wine Selection(s) of the Week:
Check out the Ottawa Life Blog – Thirst Impressions for my weekly selections
This week's posts:
The Two Faces of Grigio
One This Afternoon, One This Evening
The Rose That Might Just Change Your Mind
On the Road with the Grape Guy
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Tasting Opus One with CEO David Pearson
Vincenzo Abbruzzese (Valdicava) and 8 Wines
Peller Food Truck Eats
Lost and Found (blog):
(Wines that got "lost" in my cellar - some are Treasures others Trash … Find out what happened)
Nothing New This Week
Taste it Again Grape Guy (blog)
Find out what has happened to some of my favourites over the years
Featherstone 2007 Gewurztraminer
Lailey 2007 Riesling
Vineland Estates 2007 Riesling – Semi Dry
What I’m Drinking Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added
Vintages Release (blog)
Vintages Shop On-Line June 13, 2013
June 22, 2013 – Vintages Release Report
In-Store Discoveries – June 22, 2013
Advertising
The lineup is set for the 7th Annual 6 Barrels for 6 Chefs event at Huff Estates Winery!
Enjoy dishes prepared by some of Ontario's top chefs paired alongside barrel aged vintages of fine County wine, all amongst the vines at Huff Estates Winery.
Friday, July 12th
Huff Estates Winery, Prince Edward County
Starting at 5:30pm
All the Details here: www.six4six.ca
Advertising
Uncorked and Decanted: Wine Country Ontario Launches a Contest
Wine Country Ontario is challenging Ontario consumers to discover, capture and share the moments and rich experiences of local wine country by asking them to imagine and ultimately Tweet the 'untweetable'.
This exciting initiative challenges consumers to share the magic of Ontario wine country on Twitter; experiences that simply can't be put into words. This innovative element is part of an integrated communications campaign, 'untweetable' that launches Monday, June 24th, 2013.
"We are delighted with how this campaign invites wine enthusiasts to fall in love with our local wine experience. Wine Country Ontario offers each individual to connect with us in their own unique way and this campaign supports this by suggesting that no one image can tell the whole story," says Hillary Dawson, President of the Wine Council of Ontario for 'Wine Country Ontario'.
Consumers are being encouraged to try and actually Tweet the 'untweetable' Wine Country Ontario experience with an image or with text. Twitter followers of @winecountryont are being asked to share these via Twitter and use the hashtag #untweetable. Contest runs from June 24th, 2013 until July 14th, 2013 with a chance to win one of two Wine Country Ontario getaways.
For full details on The Wine Country Ontario "untweetable" campaign and our creative partner Agency 59 please download here. But here it is in a nutshell:
‘Untweetable’ Twitter Contest: To enter, entrants must tweet @WineCountryOnt
with an image or text that responds to the challenge: “#Untweetable, but you can try________.” Text - based tweets must describe Wine Country Ontario in one single tweet (max. 140 characters). For entries to be eligible, entrants must mention @winecountryont and use the #untweetable hashtag in the tweet.
Contest runs from June 24 to July 14, 2013.
Two winners will be selected and awarded a Wine Country Ontario experience.
1. One winner will be selected based on their photo entry.
2. One winner will be selected based on the wording within their tweet
Wine Event Spotlight: 4 Events - Niagara and Toronto
Vintages BBQ … On Thursday, July 11, VINTAGES (LCBO) is celebrating summer in style, with a sizzling hot evening of exploring their latest selection of newly-released wines, barbecue fare and music. VINTAGES will be showcasing 65 products, perfect to pair with classic barbecue favourites. When: Thursday, July 11, 2013 - 6:30-9pm … Where: CORUS (Queens Quay & Lower Jarvis) 25 Dockside Drive, Toronto … Cost: $65 per person – includes sampling of more than 65 products and barbecued treats. For further information, please visit vintages.com/bbq … To order your tickets, please call 416-365-5767 or 1-800-266-4764 Monday to Friday, 8:30 am to 6 pm and Saturday 9 am to 6 pm, except holidays.
i4c’s kick-off event: 8 Chefs. 8 Grills … Raise your glass to Chardonnay at the Official Kick-Off event for the International Cool Climate Celebration on Friday, July 19 at Trius Winery at Hillebrand. At 8 Chefs. 8 Grills. meet and toast with 62 i4c Winemakers from around the world, and prepare to fill your glass with top International Chardonnays alongside Trius Winery’s vines. As the sun goes down, stunning globe lights transform the vineyard into a magical scene while you indulge in barbeque delicacies from 8 renowned chefs. Use your taste buds to help Trius Winery Restaurant's Gold Medal Plates-winning Executive Chef, Frank Dodd determine the champion of the Chardonnay-inspired grill. Click here to find out how you can join in the celebration.
SANTE: PARTY IN THE VINEYARD & WINE BARREL AUCTION … Enjoy a casually elegant evening of dining, dancing, wine barrel auction and special guest entertainment: Santé. To your health and to a new era of health in our community. $500 per person, inclusive of taxes and gratuities. Tickets include a charitable tax receipt for the maximum allowable amount. Details can be found here: http://reservations.andrewpeller.com/events/sante.html
Trius Jazz Line-Up Announced! … the line-up of premier Canadian jazz artists for Trius Jazz at the Winery on July 13, 2013! Ranee Lee. Michael Occhipinti: Shine On - The Universe of John Lennon, Ron Davis, Heillig Manoeuvre. This year you can Choose from a variety of ticket options and experiences that include Vineyard Lawn Seating, Trius Red Lounge, Trius Winery Restaurant Patio Seating and Backstage Pass. You can buy Buy Tickets Online or call 1.800.582.8412 ext. 2
OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.
What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of: he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges. He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes. Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.
Psst, Pass It On … keep the good wine flowing. Forward this newsletter to your mom in Milton, your son in Smith Falls, or any other family member or loved one that you know needs good wine advice.
Socially Speaking …
Follow Michael Pinkus, the Grape Guy’s (almost) daily Tweets at http://twitter.com/TheGrapeGuy .
You can become a friend on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/?ref=home#!/mepinkus .
Those who are “Linked In” can find Michael at http://ca.linkedin.com/pub/michael-pinkus/14/704/4b8 .
To contact us with feedback, article ideas, comments, concerns or questions – email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. We look forward to hearing from you!
© OntarioWineReview.com 2013. All rights reserved. You may use the content of this newsletter by including full credit to Michael Pinkus, Grape Guy and a link to www.ontariowinereview.com
