Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter #218 - A Few Questions That Have Been on My Mind and Yours

Newsletter #218 - A Few Questions That Have Been on My Mind and Yours

27 Nov 2013

Details: Category: Newsletter Archives

OntarioWineReview Newsletter 218

November 2013

OntarioWineReview: A Few Questions That Have Been on My Mind and Yours
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Sparklings, Syrah and more
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: A Couple of Events + Look for Open Houses

NB: Due to time constraints there will be no PDF of the newsletter this week.

OntarioWineReview: A Few Questions That Have Been on My Mind and Yours - your feedback is welcome

Can I trust the LCBO sales staff???
This is an age old question. Not just about the LCBO, but about all salespeople. In my lifetime I have been a lot of things and tried my hand at a number of occupations, one of which being sales – in the end I found that I just couldn’t lie to people faces just to make a sale and thus removed myself from that industry (especially after my vacuum days) . But the other day I heard an LCBO ad promoting a certain wine for the holidays and the disembodied voice told me this wine is a great buy at the LCBO. My first thought was “well, where else am I gonna get it?” and second, can I really trust a review of something being really good from the organization whose sole purpose is to sell it to me? That’s something, I suppose, that can asked about a lot of things, but I guess I have such an in-grained and absolute distrust for this particular organization that I now question everything they do and say.
Do you also have this or am I alone in my thoughts on the LCBO?

What’s with the 2011 Vintage???
I’m a big fan of sandwiches. Some say the bread makes the sandwich, and some say it’s the filling. I have to admit I’m a filings kinda guy (Montreal Smoked Meat needs to be piled high and it can be served on a cracker for all I care). I hear you asking, why is he bringing up sandwiches under the heading of the 2011 vintage? Because ’11 is a sandwich vintage, and an unfortunate one at that; 2010 and 2012 are two of the best vintages on record, to stick with the analogy, they are some of the best, most luscious breads you can find – while on the other hand 2011 is the filling between those slices, and while it is true the bread can outshine the filling it’s still important not to overlook what’s between those slices.
Feel free to share with me some of your highlights of the 2011 vintage.

Is the 2013 Vintage as bad as first reported???
There have been a few reviewers and critics who have already written off the 2013 vintage here in Ontario, and I think they’re a little premature in doing that. Granted, it was no 2010 or 2012 – but it surely isn’t worse than the average vintage that was 2011 or the poor 2003 vintage … it’s important to remember that even lesser vintages have their moments to shine. I recently opened a 2004 Delaine Syrah from Jackson-Triggs and was shocked at the beauty of the wine from what many would consider a lesser vintage, and from a grape not designed for our climate. Now, I don’t think any winemaker worth his tanks and barrels would tell you 2013 was the best vintage ever; but let’s not paint it with the bad brush quite yet; let’s let the wines tell the tale in a couple of years’ time.
What’s your best wine memory from the summer of 2013?

What Bottle of Sparkling Wine Goes Best with New Year’s?
I get this question all the time … most people think that because we’re a month away (or so) from New Year’s Eve it’s getting near time to open some bubbly. And while I too will be pooping the cork on some fizz on New Year’s I would like to point out there are 11 other months of the year that also deserve some celebrating. Pick a random Tuesday, or a dreary Monday or even a fabulous Friday to make some noise in your glass. There are plenty of good sparkling wines for a shade over $20, and some for far less, that’ll do perfectly well for anytime the need for sparkling strikes you. So just because it’s the holidays don’t think it’s the only time bubbles are required; you’ll find life’s a lot more enjoyable if you just open 5 extra bottle each year … and that’s just starters.
Let me know what your favourite bottle of bargain bubbly is.

Why are your Lost & Found / Taste it Again reviews so Brutal???
Recently, I got some good natured ribbing (I think it was good natured anyway) from a winemaker who happened upon one of my Lost & Found / Taste it Again reviews where I lambasted their wine. If you have never visited these external blogs, here are the links (Lost & Found blog – Taste it Again blog) … here I open older bottles of Ontario wine and review them for those of you who might have them in your cellar, or for those who think Ontario wines are just for drinking now. Over the years I have had some great discoveries and some massive disappointment … my criteria for these reviews is simple: the wine can no longer be for sale and / or I must be totally honest about what I am tasting, and I always write up whatever falls into this wheelhouse: the good, the bad and the ugly. This is a slightly different philosophy than the one that dictates my reviews on the main website (OntarioWineReview.com); here I do not review bad wines – my feeling is that there are enough good ones out there that there is no need to shine a light on the bad ones (it stirs up un-necessary controversy), I’ll point you in the direction of good ones, the rest is up to you. As far as any older wines I find or taste again – the above does not apply.
Let me know about your aged wine finds, good bad or indifferent.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Syrah, Sparkle, Chardonnay and a Sweetie

Angels Gate 2011 Chardonnay, Archangel Brut - $21.95 (W, L)
www.angelsgatewinery.com
Legitimately this could be labelled a Blanc de Blancs Brut, as it is dry and made from 100% Chardonnay – but Angels Gate has gone down a different path here with their bubbles, sticking with the heavenly theme of the winery and called this one: Archangel. Pretty and pleasant, this Angel keeps its fruit roots firmly intact along with a good acid backbone. There’s a touch of toastiness along with the limeade and apples nuances that makes the palate tingly and happy when drinking this one. Price: $21.95 – Rating: ****+

Chateau des Charmes 2010 Chardonnay, St. David’s Bench Vineyard - $19.95 (W, L)
www.fromtheboscfamily.com
So far I have liked every 2010 Chardonnay that has come out the doors of the Chateau – from the cheap-o Barrel Fermented ($13.95) to this deliciously complex single vineyard offering – you pay a little more, but what’s $6 between friends and a good Chardonnay. There’s a vanilla-butter sensation complete with caramelized peach and baked apple … nice acidity takes up residence on the back palate with hints of clove and burnt vanilla (don’t knock burnt vanilla till you’ve tried it) – this one is delicious all on its own. Price: $19.95 – Rating: ****

Hinterland 2011 Blanc de Blanc - $35.00 (W)
www.hinterlandwine.com
The story behind this wine goes a little something like this: the winemaker and his wife were tasting this Etoiles-destined Chardonnay (their top tier bubbly) and one thought it was too good to just mix into the blend. The debate raged for an un-named amount of time (but remember, they are married, so those can last) - sooner or later the pull-it-out camp won (not sure whether it was a wine making choice or one of those intimate threats couples make when they fight) – but out it came and the first Hinterland Blanc de Blanc was born. This one comes to you in layers: the first thing you’ll notice is the bracing acidity, then the fresh mac apple, then comes along vanilla-hazelnut-biscotti and lime notes. Ultimately it’s a bubbly meant to sip with good friends because of its prettiness and elements of delicacy, therefore it could only be shared with those we love. Price: $35.00 – Rating: ****

Jackson-Trigss 2011 Syrah, Delaine Vineyard - $34.95 (W)
www.jacksontriggswinery.com
By now I hope I don’t have to explain the name Delaine to you, and instead can focus on this single vineyard Syrah which has become a flagship red for the winery. Winemaker Marco Piccoli says the key to growing Syrah in Ontario is “to hang [it] as long as possible – because we don’t want to harvest green Syrah”, he’s also quick to point out that it’s “not an easy varietal”. But when the results are this good, well the rest goes unsaid. Smoky bacon and cassis on the nose leads to similar flavours on the palate along with smoky-oak, touches of white pepper and good balancing acidity … it needs about a year to settle and meld but it’ll be worth the wait. Price: $34.95 – Rating: ****+

Reif Estate 2012 Cabernet-Merlot - $13.95 (W, L)
www.reifwinery.com
You’ve probably been hearing it for a while now, “the 2012’s are coming, the 2012’s are coming” – well they aren’t just coming anymore, they have arrived and will be the next wave of red wines hitting shelves over the next little while. 2012 was another great red vintage in Ontario and the wines will reflect it even in those wines at the low end of the price spectrum. This Reif beauty has a mocha-cherry nose backed by raspberry, anise and plum. Palate shows elements of dried cherry and raspberry along with anise, chocolate, vanilla and cassis. For under $15 it has a rich mouthfeel and compelling flavour that you should not miss – I recommend picking up more than just one. Price: $13.95 – Rating: ****+

Vineland 2012 Cabernet Franc - $13.95 (W, L)
www.vineland.com
This is always one of the best value wines in the LCBO and one of the best value Cabernet Francs in all of Ontario … it’s made under the loving care of winemaker and Cabernet Franc fan Brian Schmidt, and his love of the grape really shows through. The nose has raspberry, tobacco and hints of cherry … these aromas follow effortlessly onto the palate; another great version of this base model Franc, which bodes well for the higher up ranges of Franc to be released in the next year or so. Price: $13.95 – Rating: ****+

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Video #45 – Closson Chase 2011 Closson Chase Vineyard Chardonnay
Video #46 – Muscedere 2011 Cabernet Franc

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Amazed By Italy
Gift Giving Should Be this Easy - The White Edition

On the Road with the Grape Guy
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
More Updates Coming Soon

Lost and Found (blog):
(Wines that got "lost" in my cellar - some are Treasures others Trash … Find out what happened)
Lailey 2008 Zweigelt
Inniskillin 2006 Reserve Series Pinot Noir

Taste it Again Grape Guy (blog)
Find out what has happened to some of my favourites over the years
Vineland Estates 2005 Cabernet Franc
Henry of Pelham 2007 Cabernet-Merlot Reserve
Hillebrand 2006 Wild Ferment Chardonnay

What I’m Drinking Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
November 23, 2013 – Vintages Release Report
In-Store Discoveries – November 23, 2013

Advertising

Wine Event Spotlight: A Couple of Events + Look for Open Houses

Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery is pleased to partner with War Child for a very special benefit on Friday, November 29th, 2013. This festive evening will feature an intimate performance by multiple award winning artist Tom Cochrane, joined by special guest Kathleen Edwards, and culinary delights created by Celebrity Chefs Anna and Michael Olson (Platinum Package) and Jackson-Triggs Estate Chef Tim Mackiddie (Gold and Silver Package). All proceeds from the event will go to support War Child, an internationally-recognized charity that provides humanitarian assistance to war-affected children in some of the most devastated regions of the world. Details can be found here.

Slow and Sinful Gala … Slow Food Prince Edward County’s third annual tribute to locally produced champagne-style wines, will be held on November 30th. Guests will be invited to circulate among small tables where some of the county’s best chefs and Loyalist College Culinary Arts students will be serving savory and sweet offerings paired with thoughtfully selected sparkling wines and specialty distillations. Little Bluff will delight with their up tempo dance music. For information on the Gala and Slow Food’s charitable activities and to purchase tickets for the event please visit http://www.slowfoodthecounty.ca/

Tis the Season ... Open Houses are everywhere, check your favourite wineries website to see what they are doing for the holidays.

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of: he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges. He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes. Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

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