Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter #220 - More Promises! More Disappointment?

Newsletter #220 - More Promises! More Disappointment?

09 Jan 2014

Details: Category: Newsletter Archives

OntarioWineReview Newsletter 220

January 2014

OntarioWineReview: More Promises! More Disappointment?
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: 5 to Start the Year off Right
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: Winter is Most Definitely Here

OntarioWineReview: More Promises! More Disappointment?

There was a certain amount of optimism over the holidays coming out of the wineries of Ontario as the Wynne Liberals, who lead this province, announced a new initiative to get Ontario wines into the hands of more Ontarians … or at least that’s how they are selling it.

In case you missed it, Kathleen Wynne and the Corrupt Liberals (sounds like a great 90’s band) have released their latest McGuffin on the land, an announcement that Ontario VQA wine is to be sold at farmer’s markets throughout the province. It’s all part of their 75 million dollar plan to support the local wineries and help them grow. The timing couldn’t be better, for them anyway; this announcement comes just before a soon-to-be scheduled by-election in Niagara. Funny, how it is only now the Premier and her troops have decided to finally help the wineries of Ontario … seems rather convenient. I starting to experience a little déjà vu about this though; didn’t they use this same technique to grab a couple of seats in the last election?

Now, before you accuse me of being anti-Liberal, I’m not. Before this government completely let me down I would have counted myself among them, but my personal politics aside, I’m not anti-Liberal, I’m pro-Ontario Winery – and anything that can help these hard working, passionate folks get their wines into more hands of the Ontario populace, the happier I am. I want more Ontarians to know what a scant few (in comparison to the Ontario population) already know: Ontario makes damn fine wine … period – full stop.

So if that’s the case, why would I be calling this recent announcement by the Ontario Liberals a McGuffin (“the central focus of a film [or story] in the first act, and then declines in importance as the struggles and motivations of the characters play out” – Wikipedia). Could it be that we’ve heard these kinds of promises before? Haven’t promises been made by previous administrations to loosen laws and extend availability only to dry up once elections have been won and time has passed?

Do not the sins of past governments both Liberal and Conservative lay at the feet of those currently in power? Remember the BASR report? The promise of corner store sales? The dismantling of the LCBO? All these past promises hang heavily over this province. How soon we forget and how quickly we become elated at the thought of yet another chance at the brass ring fo wine sales outside the usual restrictive channels.

My favourite part of this promise (read here: Toronto Star version / CBC version) is the creation of a “wine secretariat to come up with ways to reduce red tape and help growers and wineries be more competitive”. Could this plan include the LCBO? It sure looks that way. This government has continued to lean heavily on the LCBO for all their proposed “fixes” and “help” to the Ontario wine dilemma: Wynnne already sites the Liberals major achievements in this field as Specialty Outlets (VQA boutiques in LCBO stores) and Grocery Store Kiosks (run by, the LCBO) this does not broaden the availability of choice, it just strengthens the hold the LCBO has on this province; so I have no reason to believe this government won’t lean on them again to launch the “Farmers’ Market” initiative.

If they truly want to help the wine industry in this province stop handcuffing them as to where they can sell their wines. Give them actual retail space like the Wine Shoppes and Wine Rack stores that Peller and Vincor hold onto like gold (because they are). Let them sell their wines not just at Farmers’ Markets but at festivals and events where you can sample the wine before you buy. Nothing makes attendees of festivals more annoyed than our prohibition era laws, that keep them from buying bottles of their favourite wines tasted at expos, festivals or events. It’s mind boggling and baffling to any who have attended wine shows in other countries. Let wineries actually sell their wines at these events … I promise, no one is going to open the bottle in their car on the way home; no more so than they would after purchasing it at an LCBO store.

And so that it’s not just my voice of dissention you hear, allow me to bring winery owner Daniel Lenko into the conversation, as he posted his thoughts on Facebook: “Ok, this could get long winded. I think in general wine producers in Niagara are supportive of this olive branch being offered. Why not? This is the start of something, and anything is better than nothing. Here are the pitfalls: 1) You can't sample wine before 11am legally, and farmers markets primarily occur in the early morning hours. 2) Can I have a stand-alone store in the "PATH" and call it "The Farmers Market ". I will offer produce as well. Or is this too civil? 3) I can't warehouse anything offsite so that means that I must drive pallets of wine back and forth daily to Niagara, how environmentally irresponsible. 4) And hold on a second ... Why is it that [Cellared in Canada] wines can be sold ANYWHERE in private stores and wines grown and vinified in Ontario can only now, 25 years later, be available at farmers markets. It really feels like I am a second class citizen here”.

But of course this is just one man’s opinion, now it’s your turn. Take to Facebook (Ontario Wine Review) and Twitter (@TheGrapeGuy) and let me know your thoughts on the matter.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: 5 to Start the Year off Right

Cave Spring 2012 Chardonnay, Dolomite - $16.95 (W)
www.cavespringcellars.com
The Dolomite series is showing quality and value up and down the line, from Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc to Riesling and Sparkling, and now the Chardonnay is following along the similar lines. I really dug the last version of the Dolomite Chardonnay (which was the inaugural vintage of Chard in this series); but this one, also very good, seems to be made in a different style. I’d like to say it was the vintage but both ’10 and ’12 are hot vintages. While the 2010 had mineral and fruit this one leans heavier on the creamy aspects of Chardonnay: vanilla cream and pineapple puree accost the nose initially, leading to a palate that’s tropically tinged with vanilla and butter on the finish. The palate also carries the added weight of lime pith, that signature mineral of the Dolomite line and of course that Ontario acidity … it’s another good Dolomite wine from Cave Spring, and at this price it’s an easy pick up by the half or full case. Price: $16.95 – Rating: ****+

Hillebrand 2012 Trius Cabernet Sauvignon - $14.95 (W, L)
www.hillebrand.com
This wine is so young and yet already a winner of a prestigious honour at the Intervin awards. If you couldn’t make Cabernet Sauvignon from 2012 grapes … well what can I say, it was a beautiful year for the later ripening grape varieties, and this wine shows how value can go into a good bottle of wine. Cassis, blackberry, cocoa, cinnamon, vanilla, all make an appearance on both the nose and palate, all well-integrated with the tannins and balancing acidity … this one’s just an all-round good wine and one you could easily cellar for a decade; and at this price why not try, but do drink a few along the way. Price: $14.95 – Rating: ****+

Malivoire 2012 Gamay – Small Lot - $19.95 (W)
www.malivoire.com
Stop the presses, Malivoire has done it again. Come to think of it, when it comes to Gamay, that’s nothing new for this producer … during my Gamay week videos they had 2 spots in my top 6 and could have easily taken up a third. This best barrel selection is stunning (once again). Smoked black cherry and hints of vanilla hit the nose, while on the palate it’s friendly and fun with touches of black licorice and silky tannins loaded with cherry juice … there’s also the perfect amount of acidity to compliment the long finish. Price: $19.95 – Rating: **** ½

Rosehall Run 2011 Chardonnay – JCR, Rosehall Vineyard - $29.95 (W)
www.rosehallrun.com
It’s been awhile since a Rosehall Chardonnay has struck me like this one – I was totally blown off my chair and had to keep re-trying it to make sure it was as good as first thought … it was … and with each subsequent sip I fell a little harder. There is so much going for this wine it’s like sensory over-load: honey aromas followed by floral, dried apple and apricot, fig, vanilla oak and butterscotch … I thought there’s no way all this translates to the mouth, but I was wrong. Silky smooth on the palate, the floral, apricot and honey follow onto the tongue and so does the butterscotch and dried apple … there’s also some mineral notes that show up for good measure. This is a totally delicious and age-worthy Chard from the folks at Rosehall. One of the best Rosehall Run Chardonnays I have had in quite some time, drink now for the flavours or hold 5+ years for the intensity and intricacies to come. Price: $29.95 – Rating: **** ½

Thirty Bench 2012 Riesling - $18.95 (W, L)
www.thirtybench.com
This three vineyard blend from the Steel Post, Wood Post and Triangle vineyards is a very expressive version and one of the best blended Rieslings that Thirty Bench has put out in quite some time. It’s fruit driven with peach and lemon zest, but also has a really precise mineral core that turns chalky and dry on the finish, but still manages to keep the fruit intact … it’s a great high wire act that really pays off. Price: $18.95 – Rating: ****+

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Sparkling Wine Week
Video #49 – Jackson-Triggs 2010 Brut - Entourage Grand Reserve
Video #50 – Hinterland 2011 Blanc de Blanc
Video #51 – Angels Gate 2011 Archangel Brut, Chardonnay
Video #52 – Chateau des Charmes Brut
Video #53 – Featherstone 2010 Joy

First of 2014 ... Video #54 - Tawse 2012 ‘Spark’ - Riesling Limestone Ridge

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Wines for the Holidays – Domestic Sparkling
Wines for the Holidays – Other Bubblies
What’s the Port You Call For
Here’s to a Sweet New Year

On the Road with the Grape Guy
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Amarone Families Tasting
Vinexx Tasting
E & J Gallo Portfolio Tasting
Wine Australia Media Tasting, Mini-Thematic
Deutz Champage Tasting
Tenuta S. Anna Lunch and Tasting
KWV Lunch and Tasting
Mark Anthony Brands Portfolio Tasting
Dave and I Open a '96
The Great Estates of Niagara FAM tour
Cono Sur Dinner at Far Niente Restaurant
Ornellaia 25th Anniversary Lunch at Barbarian Steak House
Napa Valley: A Taste of Time & More
Annual Taste of Italy in Toronto, 2013 Edition
Wines of Chile Annual Tasting

Lost and Found (blog):
(Wines that got "lost" in my cellar - some are Treasures others Trash … Find out what happened)
Marynissen Estates 2002 Cabernet Franc

Taste it Again Grape Guy (blog)
Find out what has happened to some of my favourites over the years
Calamus Estate 2007 Meritage
Konzelmann Estate Winery 2006 Shiraz
Lailey 2008 Old Vines Chardonnay

What I’m Drinking Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
January 4, 2014 – Vintages Release Report
In-Store Discoveries – January 4 & 18, 2014

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Icewine Festival - January 10-26, 2014
see all the details of what's happening here

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Wine Event Spotlight: Winter is Most Definitely Here

It's a winter wonderland out there so get out there and tour the wine region of you choice to stay warm and toasty.

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

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