Newsletter #221 - Things to Think About

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OntarioWineReview Newsletter 221 January 2014

• OntarioWineReview: Things to Think About
  

• Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: A Real Mix Six
  

• Bi-Weekly OWR Updates:  Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
  

• Wine Event Spotlight: Winter is Most Definitely Here
  

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OntarioWineReview:  Things to Think About

Once again I find myself in a quandary.  I think that’s part of living in Ontario and dealing with the alcohol industry, specifically in my case, wine.  As we crossed over into 2014 I found myself once again with more questions than answers, but instead of continuing to lose sleep about it (as I am now, writing the first draft of this at 4:44am) I thought I would ask these questions to you – see if you can help me work things out:

1) If a Boutique builds in an LCBO store and nobody’s around to staff it, does anybody come?

I have devoted a few pages and a few brain cells to the question of those wonderful new Ontario Boutiques, that both the government and the LCBO touted as the great savior for Ontario wine in the province.  I have questioned the initial three locations (Niagara, St. Catharines and Windsor) – three locations that didn’t really require added Ontario wine exposure (considering their proximity to wine country).  I have thought about their semi-foolish wine buying practices for these Boutiques: one winery told me the LCBO bought just 12 cases of one of their wines (4 per store), one suspects so they can show off more labels, but not actually buy any more significant amounts of wine.  And I have pointed out that the LCBO is not the one who should be opening these stores as it does not expand the market access in any way, what it does accomplish is to strengthen the LCBO’s stranglehold on the Ontario wine buying public.  But what I never contemplated, nor even thought about, was who is stafffing these Boutiques?

The answer is self-evident:  LCBO employees.  The same employees whose “staff picks” include wines from everywhere but Ontario.  The same employees, that when asked about a good Riesling take you to the German section.  And the same employees that who a Cabernet Franc is a Cabernet from France (true story).  And in truth can you really blame the employees, when the employer is the one that should be doing some on-going training.  

The real questions should be:  Who is (being) trained for these Boutiques?  Who is staffing them full time?  And who can you ask about Ontario wine?

These Boutiques were unveiled to such fanfare yet the LCBO has no specific staff to help those who wander in.  I have heard story after story from people who walk in to these Boutiques settings and then wandering out 10 minutes later with nary a question asked of them.  They have Vintages staff to take care of that specific section, why not devote some resources to the Ontario Boutique sections?  You can bet that had the job been given over to the private sector, or even to the wineries themselves, they would have staff that would be well-trained to answer all your Ontario wine related questions – it only stands to reason – if you want to sell more of something you train your staff to be well versed at selling it … this can only lead me to one conclusion, the LCBO has no interest in really selling more Ontario wine; stocking it, yes - selling it, no.  

This is not a build it and they will come scenario, but the LCBO seems to think it is … and if they do come, it’s self-serve.

2) What happened to all the grapes of 2013?

Over the past few weeks I have received half a dozen emails from the Grape Growers of Ontario touting the record breaking year they had.  The last record breaking year was a year ago (2012) when Ontario harvested 63,000 tons of grapes – this year they smashed that record by 16,000 tons (for a total of 79,000 tons harvested).  Back in 2012 the growers were apoplectic: too many grapes not enough buyers and the government had to step in and “rescue” the industry, buying up unsold grapes and compensating others.  

This year, with 16,000 tons more grapes in the market and only a year between these record setting harvests there is barely a peep out of the Grape Growers – where did all those grapes go?  Have the Ontario wineries found new venues to sell their wines and thus need more grapes to fuel that demand?  Has there been such an influx of new small producers that they gobbled up   all the grapes?  More than 16,000 tons worth!  That’s a lot of grapes to have been swallowed up.  Which brings me to question three …

3) If a secret deal was cut who would know?

Call it the conspiracy theorist in me (I do believe there was a second gunman on the grassy knoll), but what if the government didn’t want to bail out the growers again, they’ve had enough scandal, they don’t need another, and they can’t be seen wasting taxpayers money (again).  So why not cut a secret deal with some of Ontario’s larger producers?  You know, the guys that make Cellared in Canada wines, plus these guys have those outlets to sell those wines; and why would they do such a noble thing?  Let’s surmise they did it in exchange for some tax relief and a promise that this government give up on the notion of privatization and greater access to market for all wineries … I’m just spit balling here but sounds like a pretty sweet backroom deal; and one I could see Kathleen Wynne jumping all over, considering she’s not a fan of privatization in the first place, with the added benefit of avoiding the blatant waste of taxpayers money.

It’s something to think about – I guess we’ll have to keep our eyes on the new “Wine Secretariat”, because everyone knows greater access to market is the key to growing the wine industry and all reports claim higher tax revenues into government coffers; so it should be a no-brainer going forward right?  Especially in cash-strapped Ontario.  This government wouldn’t quash the growth and access they promised for a short-term solution, would they?

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: A Real Mix Six

Coyote’s Run 2012 Cabernet-Merlot - $16.95 (W, L)
www.coyotesrunwinery.com
As the regular 2012 reds begin their arrival excitement begins to mount for, what could be, some of the best reds Ontario has ever offered … of course that statement must have a caveat: as long as your winemaker knows what he’s doing.  Dave Sheppard’s been doing wine in Ontario for 30+ years so he’s got plenty of experience under his belt, and for this 2012 he’s done a great job of melding the fruit and tannins together with vanilla, smoky and cinnamon notes – there’s lots f delicious layers and texture to this wine.  A great value red and widely available.  Price: $16.95 – Rating: ****+

Fielding 2012 Chardonnay - $21.95 (W)
www.fieldingwines.com
This Chardonnay shows complexity from start to finish – aromas of vanilla, butter, baked apple, poached pear, hazelnut, honey and caramel; and that’s just the nose.  Palate isn’t as upfront about what it’s ready to show, but over time much should materialize, for now it’s vanilla, butterscotch, apple, peach pit and wildflower honey with a slightly bitter almond skin finish.  Price: $21.95 – Rating: ****

Nyarai Cellars 2012 Viognier - $21.95 (OL)
www.nyaraicellars.ca
Viognier seems to be a dichotomy of a grape, it seems to do well in cool vintages and it does wonderfully well in warm vintages … here Nyarai Cellars winemaker/owner, Steve Byfield, puts out one of his strongest versions yet: the nose has sweet tropical fruit like mango and papaya, while showing off other aromas like citrus and peach.  The palate increases the enjoyment factor with pineapple and mango leading the charge, while adding lime pith for as added dimension.  The mouth shows a fair bit of weight, probably from the year (2012 = hot vintage) and that leads to a pleasant medium length finish.  Price: $21.95 – Rating: ****+

Palatine Hills 2010 Cabernet-Merlot - $15.95 (W)
www.palatinehillsestatewinery.com
Another value priced red blend that delivers exceptionally well for its price point.  Loads of fruit including blackberry, strawberry and cassis along with smoke, cocoa and good tannins.  This well-structured wine is a fine example of the 2010 wines and the value pricing make is an easy pick up by the case.  Price: $15.95 – Rating: ****

Redstone Vineyards 2012 Riesling, Brickyard - $13.95 (L)
No website yet
Another winery has opened in Niagara (or will soon) – but before you smack your head in disbelief and wonder where they’re going to fit another, let me tell you this one already existed, but under a different name. A few years back Tawse purchased the property of the Thomas & Vaughan winery thus giving themselves a presence on King Street (the main winery drag through Niagara).  This first offering from Redstone has lovely tropical notes with some nice pear and mineral (namely talc) there’s also golden delicious apple mixed with some tart Granny Smith which gives the finish a little kick.  Currently the wines are only available at the LCBO.  Price: $13.95 – Rating: ****

Tawse 2011 Cabernet Franc, Grower’s Blend - $26.95 (W, L)
www.tawsewinery.ca
Trust Tawse to take a metso-metso year and weave gold from it … the nose is alluringly fruit driven: cherry, raspberry and other red and dark fruit with elements of red licorice and cigar tobacco.  The palate plays with those aromas and adds plummy and smoky-tobacco flavours which take center stage all while being backed-up by a cast that includes cherry, raspberry and nice balancing acidity.  You will find some aggressive tannins on the finish but that should subside within a year or two.  Price: $26.95 – Rating: ****

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) –  OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Sparkling Wine Week
Video #55 – Big Head 2012 Bigger Red
Video #56 – Cave Spring 2012 Dolomite Chardonnay

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Homegrown Hits Tried Over the Holidays
Three Ruffino Chiantis

On the Road with the Grape Guy
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Nothing New This Week

Lost and Found (blog):
(Wines that got "lost" in my cellar - some are Treasures others Trash … Find out what happened)
Nothing New This Week

Taste it Again Grape Guy (blog)
Find out what has happened to some of my favourites over the years
Nothing New This Week

What I’m Drinking Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
January 18, 2014 – Vintages Release Report
February 1, 2014 – Vintages Release Report

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Icewine Festival - January 10-26, 2014
see all the details of what's happening here

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Wine Event Spotlight:  Winter is Most Definitely Here

It's a winter wonderland out there so get out there and tour the wine region of you choice to stay warm and toasty.

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

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