Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter #224

Newsletter #224 - B.C. Initiatives

06 Mar 2014

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OntarioWineReview Newsletter 224

March 2014

OntarioWineReview: B.C. Initiatives
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Something Old, Something New, Something Lost ... 7 wines for you
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: Dining and Music

OntarioWineReview: B.C. Initiatives

I just read something really interesting and you know what? I think you should too – it’s a list of policies put forth by a forward thinking provincial government not stuck in the stone-age of an anti-alcohol prohibition era … now in truth it’s not law (yet) and there will surely be debates to come, but at least someone in British Columbia is doing some right-minded thinking and best of all it has been made very public, unlike our version (BASR report) which was shelved milliseconds after it was delivered. It’s HIGH time the provincial government here at home in Ontario, begins to think the same way and get out of the LCBO-Box its keeps cornering us into.

I call it the “LCBO – Box” because the liquor and wine solutions of this government seem to involve loading more of their policies and initiatives onto LCBO shoulders and shelves and mandating the LCBO to “make it work”: be it the limited availability programs, the kiosks in grocery stores or the “expanded” Ontario Boutiques within pre-existing stores … each one of these are put on the LCBO’s shoulders, and they alone are forced to carry the weight of what I am sure they believe to be the “burden” of selling more and more Ontario wine.

Now before I hit on some of the highlights British Columbia is considering I want to share a little story from my recent trip to Tuscany (Italy). As I walked the streets of Florence, San Gimignano, Montepulciano and Montalcino I was struck by the number of “Enotecas” (wine shops that also sell food: meats, cheeses, pasta, etc.), and in each were the wines of Tuscany (there was no foreign wine on their shelves). While having dinner with a local producer he nearly choked on his food when I told him that 75%+ of the LCBO is dedicated to foreign wine … he thought that is unheard of, especially in a place so rich in wine and wine culture as Tuscany (or Italy for that matter) not to be the dominant regional focus is sacrilegious. That a wine producing region would choose to showcase foreign wine over domestic product simply blew his mind. Mind you, he did say he loves the LCBO because they buy his product, a lot of his product – and if you’re one of the lucky ones to be that boat in that’s the reaction you get. He doesn’t understand their thinking but he’s willing to take advantage … our loss of selection of local wines is his gain of shelf space and more profits for his company and local economy. Let me repeat that: “more profits for his company and his LOCAL economy)”. Hurray for the LCBO and the government of Ontario.

Now, back to British Columbia – the B.C. government is looking at the just released 73 recommendations made public: “The province has pledged its support for the recommendations, which include an overhaul of licensing, storage and distribution regulations.” According to an article by Peter Mitham on WineAndVine.com. Which would allow, amongst other things, tastings in picnic areas and other ‘low risk’ venues (without need of a special license); off-site retail locations (including stalls in farmers’ markets as well as secondary tasting rooms); and permitting alcohol sales in grocery stores.

This is the kind of forward thinking that would cause the Wynne Liberals to lose their shit (pardon my French); I’m sure they’re thinking: ‘those tree-hugging reformers out in B.C. might as well just hand out bottles of whiskey to children at doctors’ offices instead of lollipops. It’s this kind of thinking that is going to bring down civilization as we know it. B.C. will soon become the Wild West where six guns, ten gallon hats and horse riding will soon be in vogue, again; just look at Alberta. Thank goodness we here in Ontario have the wherewithal, and know-it-all to keep liquor/wine under lock and key, and keep our wineries firmly in check’

God-forbid wineries should have off-site stores (as well as storage); Ontario is all about stopping greater access to market: why should a winery make money? It’s the government who should make money off the sale of wine, not the other way around. Right?

In his “Last Word” summary, John Yap (Parliamentary Secretary to the Attorney General and Minister of Justice for Liquor Policy Reform) and author of the study, had this to say: “You may have heard me say in media interviews that everyone has an opinion on liquor. To take that one step further, I can say with absolute certainty that finding any majority with the same opinion on any one issue related to liquor is almost impossible. My job over the last three months was
to listen. Listen to what British Columbians were saying on the website about needing more convenience, to what the health and safety advocates were telling me in our meetings about how critical it is to find a balance and to what changes the industry needs to continue growing and thriving, bringing good jobs to our province.” Now that’s some forward thinking indeed.

His words echo those of John Lacey, chair and one of the principle authors of Ontario’s BASR report: “Like virtually everyone we consulted, we agree that social responsibility is one of the strengths of the current system, and we understand that alcohol is not just an ordinary commodity. But we do not believe that the current system is the only way of controlling this product. As we have learned from the experiences of other jurisdictions both in North America and overseas, a wide variety of approaches has succeeded in limiting the potential for alcohol-related harm while reaping the benefits of a substantial financial return that can be invested in public priorities. There is no single "right" approach. It is up to Ontario to design its own. In shaping an Ontario-made system, we have paid close attention to what we heard during our consultations with stakeholders. Apart from the emphasis on social responsibility, the most powerful theme was the need to increase access, opportunity and flexibility in the system. All but the biggest producers worry about barriers to the market that cast a shadow over their future ability to reach customers and to respond to changing consumer expectations.” A forward thinker in his own right who was shut up quickly. Like Galileo and Copernicus before him when they proposal alternate theories of the way the universe was structured.

In looking through the BC report here were three recommendations that really stood out to me:
#25 - Government should work with other Canadian wine-producing jurisdictions to jointly develop thematic wine promotions in each jurisdiction’s liquor stores to promote Canadian wine.
#32 - Allow patrons to buy bottles of liquor to take home that are showcased at festivals or competitions. Consider amending SOLs issued to festivals and competitions, or allow BC Liquor or private retail stores to operate a temporary store on site as the means to provide for
these sales.
#33 - Allow manufacturers to have off-site locations where they can sample and sell their products to the public (e.g., permanent tasting rooms in a downtown store).

If this sounds at all like something you’d want to read through (and it is refreshing to hear someone in some government say its), you can go through the whole list/report here and pick out your favourites.

If the provincial government of British Columbia takes and implements only half of these recommendations they’ll be leaps and bounds ahead of No-Fun-Tario. And considering back in 2005 we had our own policy review that was quietly shelved, the then McGinty Liberals were saying, without actually saying it, ‘we are not open to any of this’. Now, some 9 years later with B.C poised to move forward and now the Wynne Liberals (same government just different face) are prepared to sit on their collective hands and rely solely on the initiatives of the LCBO. What this government is saying to wineries (again, without coming right out and saying it) is in essence: ‘You wanna make money in the wine business, move to B.C., we don’t want you here’ – and I for one wouldn’t blame them in the least for going.

Get off your ass Liberals, it’s 2014, not 1914.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Something Old, Something New, Something Lost ... 7 wines for you

Closson Chase 2011 Chardonnay, South Clos Vineyard - $29.95 (W)
www.clossonchase.com
17 months in an oak barrel is going to give you some pretty pronounced oak characteristics … and the 2011 South Clos Chardonnay shows its oak home on its proverbial sleeve. Nose of apricot, baked apple and peach pit that also has aromas of cinnamon, burnt butter and wild flower honey. As effusive as the nose is the palate also has plenty to offer: vanilla, apricot, burnt-butter, floral, pineapple, and cedar-oaky notes but it’s that big buttery presence that really stands out with all that complexity. Price: $29.95 – Rating: ****+

Creekside 2007 Lost Barrel Red - $65.00 (W)
www.creeksidewine.com
This truly is a kitchen sink blend of a wine. But let’s address the name before we get into what is in the bottle: the “Lost Barrel” moniker was attached to this blend years ago when Creekside winemakers actually did ‘find’ a barrel of tippings and sludge in the cellar, when they tasted it the wine inside was an interesting curiosity and they decided to release it. These days they make it on purpose, still with tippings from already made and pressed wines and the ‘Lost Barrel’ moniker has stuck. Winemaker Rob Power strains to remember what has gone into it but for sure it has Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Malbec – “and maybe other”. It then spends 4 and a half years in barrel and they make 4 barrels in total (~100 cases). It’s big and spicy with lots of tannins, the wine can be chewy, for lack of a better term. It’s definitely still a curiosity and one you’ll need to leave in your cellar for another 4 and a half years to allow it to mellow and smooth – the real question here is, will it? Price: $65.00 – Rating: ****

Featherstone 2012 Cabernet Franc - $16.95 (W)
www.featherstonewinery.ca
Featherstone has long been one of the champions of value priced Cabernet Franc, they truly over deliver for the price you pay, and in 2012 they’ve done it again. A nice raspberry seam runs from beginning to end, meanwhile there’s delicate hints of tobacco on the palate along with touches of cherry and white pepper. At its core this wine is a lovely combination of complexity and juiciness. Still criminally under-priced, but I won’t tell them if you won’t. Price: $16.95 – Rating: ****

Kew Vineyards 2011 Old Vines Chardonnay - $18.95 (W)
www.kewvineyards.com
Wanna talk about underpriced in a Chardonnay? Then you need look no further than this KEW Vineyards offering – the grapes are sourced from some of the oldest vines in Niagara (planted in 1975). These vines have such depth that a minimalist approach to winemaking is a must. 6-8 months in 2-4 year old barrels was all that was required: the nose has butterscotch, vanilla and plenty of mineral, while the palate has butter cream, apricot, spice and some of that signature old vines minerality (that older vines seem to get); plus there’s a delicious creamsicle note near the lingering finish. Great value in an old vines wine. Price: $18.95 – Rating: ****+

Norman Hardie 2009 Pinot Noir - $39.95 (W)
www.normanhardie.com
As much as Norm likes to handle County fruit he also likes the challenge of Niagara fruit – they give him a ballsier version of his beloved Pinot Noir. Sourced from the St. David’s Bench (60%) and Beamsville (40%) this wine really shows Hardie’s deft hand with the grape. 13 months of French barrel aging (10% new) the wine is rich and ready now, but with potential for 5 years or more. Mainly black fruited with hints of red, big mouth-feel weighted with grainy-spiciness and lingering tannins on the finish. Speaking of the finish, you’ll find it is black cherry based and very beautiful. Price: $39.95 – Rating: **** ½

Rockway Vineyards 2011 Cabernet Franc, Small Lot -Block 11-140 (W)
www.rockwayvineyards.com
Winemaker David Stasiuk has really turned things around at this golf course cum winery, if he keeps this up the golf course will begin to play second fiddle to the winery. Nose has smoky elements along with vanilla, cassis and blackberry. Palate has some weighty tannins which helps give it some umph; but that’s surrounded by black cherry, more vanilla, and black/smoked raspberry – this is another really good Franc from Rockway, and that makes two years in a row … are we starting to see a trend? I hope so. Price: $24.95 – Rating: ****

Tawse 2012 Gamay - $18.95 (W)
www.tawsewinery.ca
In music your second album is always the toughest, especially when you had such a successful first … I’m not saying Tawse has found themselves in a sophomore slump, but they haven’t really improved on their last effort either (which was very good to begin with). The aromas are interestingly floral and perfumed with cherry blossom and violets. Palate is pleasant with mainly black cherry notes backed by white pepper and there’s a floral aspect that also rears up; a nice wine to chill for summer enjoyment. Price: $18.95 – Rating: ****

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Sparkling Wine Week
Video #61 – Coyote's Run 2012 Five Mile Red
Video #62 – Chateau des Charmes 2010 Chardonnay, St. David's Bench

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Let's Think Warm Thoughts
Why Cab Continues to be King

On the Road with the Grape Guy
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Nothing New This Week

Lost and Found (blog):
(Wines that got "lost" in my cellar - some are Treasures others Trash … Find out what happened)
Nothing New This Week

Taste it Again Grape Guy (blog)
Find out what has happened to some of my favourites over the years
Nothing New This Week

What I’m Drinking Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
No Vintages reports due to travel obligations

Something to Think About

"Well ya see, Norm, it's like this. A herd of buffalo can only move as fast as the slowest buffalo. And when the herd is hunted, it is the slowest and weakest ones at the back that are killed first. This natural selection is good for the herd as a whole, because the general speed and health of the whole group keeps improving by the regular killing of the weakest members. In much the same way, the human brain can only operate as fast as the slowest brain cells. Excessive intake of alcohol, as we know, kills brain cells. But naturally, it attacks the slowest and weakest brain cells first. In this way, regular consumption of beer eliminates the weaker brain cells, making the brain a faster and more efficient machine. That's why you always feel smarter after a few beers." - Cliff Clavin

Something to Think About

Wine Event Spotlight: Dining and Music

NIAGARA WINE COUNTRY COMES TO DOWNTOWN TORONTO ... ROOTSTOCK is an annual Jackson-Triggs concert that allows all artists to appear on stage at the same time; to collaborate and interact in a unique concert event, combining fine food, wine, music and storytelling. Tom Power, host of CBC RADIO 2 MORNING, will host this very special concert featuring three of the artists appearing at the Jackson-Triggs 2014 Summer Concert Series: Steven Page, Alan Doyle and Lindi Ortega. March 29, 2014 at the Wintergarden Theatre Toronto. Details here.

Dining at Trius ... March 7 - 31 Escape the winter blues by indulging in a delectable 3-course lunch menu for $40 per person or 3-course dinner menu for $45 per person. Chef Frank Dodd has created two incredible menus to awaken your palate and treat your senses. It's for a limited time so book your delicious culinary adventure today. Reservations can be made here.

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of: he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges. He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes. Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

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