Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter #234

Newsletter #234 - Fix the Damn Thing

23 Jul 2014

Details: Category: Newsletter Archives

OntarioWineReview Newsletter 234

July 2014

OntarioWineReview: Fix the Damn Thing
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

OntarioWineReview: Fix the Damn Thing

V-Q-A … huh!
What is it good for?
Absolutely. Nothing!
Say it Again Now.

If you’re reading the media these days that’s exactly what they are saying (and yes I count myself in that same boat); and if you talk to disgruntled winery owners and winemakers you’ll get the same reaction.

Now, as stated many times in numerous articles, I’m no fan of the VQA, I think they stymie creativity and give us a sea of blandness in a world starved for the interesting and unique. But it’s time to start doing something about it instead of just bitching about it –and wineries have the power to do just that if they’d just get together … oh wait, this is Ontario, you can’t get wineries to agree on things like privatization or VQA stores, so how in the world are we gonna get them to go about fixing VQA? To hear some winemakers and some members of the media talk you’d think the VQA needs a complete overhaul; or that the whole thing should be scrapped altogether and started anew. But VQA was based on the French AOC system – and we all know how flexible and open to change the French are when it comes to wine. So then the real question we should be asking is what will it take to bring the industry together on this topic and how much fixin’ does the VQA really need?

The VQA is a double-edged sword that is hard to wield (think of it as Excalibur). On one hand it claims that its mandate is strictly the origin of the wine – where the grapes are from – but on the other hand there’s this tasting panel that causes all kinds of headaches; many say it is un-needed and/or un-necessary, after all the lab test will prove whether there is a chemical imbalance or imperfection in the wine; other winemakers are convinced that if the tasting panel weren’t in place there’s be a glut of “bad” and “unpalatable” wines flooding the market thus marring the reputation of VQA and Ontario wines … even more than it is now?

Look, the VQA isn’t perfect, and their tasting panel is a joke. Let’s be honest, it’s the lax tasting sessions that are truly laughable: when panel members can walk in anytime between 9-5 on a testing day to taste and a wine was poured at say 9am the guy tasting it at 4:15pm isn’t getting the same experience as the ones that tasted it earlier in the day. Having tasted Vintages releases in the same method for the last seven years I can safely tell you that if you’re one of the first to try the wines at 9am you’re getting a fresh pour, the one who tries it at noon or 2pm is getting a completely different wine experience (the wine is warmer, more aerated, etc.) and thus a completely different take on the wine and (in many cases) a variance in score, for better or worse. For those of you who don’t linger over your bottles think of it this way: would you rather have the fresh cut piece of apple on the fruit plate or the piece that was cut 6 hours ago, is the last lonely piece and is swimming in the remnant juices of other fruits? The VQA claim the tasting panel is made up of “specially trained” LCBO employees (more on that in a minute) who are trained to look past that; but I have it on first-hand authority that if one of those specially trained persons aren’t around, or can’t make up the proper amount for a quorum then, “someone else” can taste. If we’re going to insist on having a tasting panel should it not be made up of a cross section of the wine industry: journalists, sommeliers and winemakers? And be done during more strict and regulated tasting hours so that they are all getting to taste the relative “same” wine? That would be a good start.

Criticism and skepticism has also been leveled on the current panel for its make up: LCBO employees – the very people in charge of selling (and in some cases regulating) the industry (and please don’t give me the BS that the AGCO is independent, they take their marching orders from the LCBO). Talk about the fox looking after the hen house. Can you say something smells fishy? I knew you could. Case in point: there have been a glut of white blends hitting the LCBO shelves over the past few years that have no more varietal characteristics to the grapes they contain then my sweat does to rose water, yet these keep getting passed by the panel. Why? Cause the LCBO is selling Ontario white blends like crazy, it’s their fastest growing segment in the Ontario category, and new one’s are green lit all the time. And why not, it’s in the LCBO’s best interest … and it’s in the wineries best interest to give the LCBO what it wants: so much so that wineries who thought they would never get into the mass blending game have, just to get a listing and onto the monopoly shelves … that smell wafting through the air, can you smell it??? Yeah, I thought so.

The reality is this: with the VQA we have complaints and concerns; lots of complaints and concerns – but without it we’d have even more. More fishy, ill-conceived wines, more of a buyer beware environment, where the only thing you could trust would be that the grapes were Ontario grown. Sure we’d also have some fabulous, creative, inventive, innovative and unique wines – But I think the poor would outnumber the great by a sizeable margin.

So to me there is only one thing left to do: let’s stop bitching and moaning and get to fixing this thing – convene a panel of writers, makers, owners and sommeliers, get some feedback, pool their ideas, get things on the table to discuss and let’s begin making VQA better, instead of just kicking this lame horse while it’s down.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:New and Noteworthy Wines

Coffin Ridge 2013 Bone Dry Riesling - $16.80 (W)
www.coffinridge.ca
I found myself to be a big fan of the 2012 Bone Dry Riesling, and quite surprised as well ... It had bright and tart acidity that wowed, especially for a hot vintage. Now we come to the 2013 and it seems the bone dry has taken on a little palate pleasing sweetness. Nose is quite inviting with apricot, peach pit, lanolin, mac apple and green apple skin. The palate mixes Mac and Granny Smith apples, along with peach pit, and bitter melon rind giving it that dryness and on the finish. But if you were a fan of the teeth jangling acidity of the 2012, this one pulls back on the reins a little in favour of some more friendly sweetness (alas not as “Bone Dry” as it claims). On the other hand, I do recommend giving this one a few sips, as it will really begin to grow on you with each one. Price: $16.80 - Rating: *** 1/2+

Hidden Bench 2012 Chardonnay, Estate - $28.75 (W)
www.hiddenbench.com
You just can’t deny good Chardonnay – it’s so easy to dismiss those over-oaked, fat versions, or those wimpy weak versions, but a good one can really get things hopping in the mouth. Aromas lean more barrel than fruit: buttery, vanilla, caramel but then in swings grilled peach … wow. Palate has the same effect with butter and vanilla taking center stage then peach and pear skin wrap themselves around the tongue and hold on until the nice spicy finish kicks in along with good acidity and great length. Price: $28.75 – Rating: ****

Huff Estates 2012 Cuvee Janine, Sparkling Rosé - $29.95 (W)
www.huffestates.com
The thing I most love about the Cuvee Janine is the color, it's just such a vibrant red, sure they call it a rosé but this bubbly is a deeper shade of red than some Pinots I have had. The wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes and winemaker Frederic Picard told me that he too loves the color and even in cooler vintages will be trying to extract this kind of hue ... it's just more distinctive. Spending a mere 12 months on lees in bottle Janine wears its fruit on its proverbial sleeve. A nose of strawberry, raspberry, and lemon pith which all follows closely onto the palate in all its red berry glory, finishing with lemon pith and zest plus a great linger of acidity along with some strawberry pith, for depth. This one has a real lip-smacking good taste and one to keep you coming back for more. Price: $29.95 - Rating: ****+

Peller Estates 2012 Gamay Noir, Private Reserve - $18.95 (W)
www.peller.com
I can’t say it enough, I love a good Gamay, especially one that drinks well with or without a chill. This single vineyard Gamay, cropped at a mere 2 tons per acre (that’s low) was one of 5 reds to win a Lieutenant Governor’s Award of Exellence in Ontario Wines, and the only Gamay to do so. The nose is pure black cherry and has a palate to match. Gentle tannins from a mix of stainless steel and oak aging, in older barrels, has given this wine a delicacy on the palate and a delicious finish. With or without a chill, it’s totally up to you, just remember to pick yourself up some before summer ends. Price: $18.95 – Rating: ****+

Peller Estates 2012 Cabernet Saivignon, Private Reserve - $21.95 (W)
www.peller.com
I knew the 2012s were going to be good, and I knew that Cabernet Sauvignon was going to be a winner of a grape variety from that vintage, so really, I'm not surprising by this wine, but I am impressed: nose is loaded with raspberry, blackberry, chocolate, cassis, and a sweet mix of vanilla-oak; at a later tasting of this same wine I also picked up an appealing leathery smokiness. Palate has robust and gritty tannins with red and dark fruit peaking their way through. While the wine is still quite young at this time you can still find tobacco, blueberry, and black currants ... This wine has a decade ahead of it and if you wanna watch an Ontario Cab come into its own over time you'll wanna pick up a few of these, if not more. Price: $21.95 - Rating: ****+

Southbrook 2012 Chardonnay, Triomphe - $22.95 (W, L)
www.southbrook.com
This is Southbrook’s “base model” Chardonnay, yet still of reserve quality. 50% barrel and 50% stainless steel aged, using estate and purchased fruit. Aromas and flavours that include grilled pear and peach with hints of vanilla running down the middle. The balance between the fruit and barrel is wonderful, keeping elements of each without one overpowering the other … the key word here is balanced. A real winner. Price: $22.95 – Rating: ****

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Regular Weekly Videos
Video #84 – Exultet 2012 The Blessed Chardonnay

Chardonnay (i4C) Week (July 14-18, 2014):
Video #89 – Southbrook 2012 Triomphe Chardonnay
Video #90 – Hidden Bench 2012 Estate Chardonnay
Video #91 – Tawse 2011 Robyn's Block Chardonnay
Video #92 – Rockway 2012 Wild Ferment Small Lot Chardonnay
Video #93 – Malivoire 2011 Mottiar Vineyard Chardonnay

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
A World of Chardonnay is Coming to Ontario
Gamay and Summer - a Perfect Match

On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Nothing New This Week
and Check out past reviews here

NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog): the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted)
Lost & Found: Coyote's Run 2010 Five Mile Red
Taste it Again: Hillebrand NV Trius Brut

NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
July 19 Vintages Report
August 2nd missed due to travel

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Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

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NJF – Niagara Jazz Festival - August 22 – 24 at various venues around the region … check out all the details here.

Red White & Blues in the County is back … Fans of Canadian blues will be treated to a fantastic late summer weekend at four of the most picturesque Prince Edward County Winery Estates; featuring multi-Award-winning performers such as Soulstack, Steve Strongman, Jack de Keyzer and Al Lerman. It all begin September 12 and runs to the 14. See all the details right here.

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OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

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