Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter #233 - Feedback

Newsletter #233 - Feedback – It’s your Turn to Have Your Say

10 Jul 2014

Details: Category: Newsletter Archives

OntarioWineReview Newsletter 233

July 2014

OntarioWineReview:Feedback – It’s your Turn to Have Your Say
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

OntarioWineReview: Feedback – It’s your Turn to Have Your Say

Every so often I amass some real interesting feedback that I feel I must share with you; today’s newsletter it’s all about the readers’ having their say.

I thank all of you who wrote in (whether we printed it here or not), I thank you for your feedback and I would like to say, “keep it coming”. And now it’s over to you …

Newsletter #232 – It’s All Over
Last time out I introduced people to the term “bad Ontario wine”, which caused a little bit of confusion for Louise:

“I confess to being confused by what you meant by 'bad'…was it faulted or just wine that someone didn't like? And it seems to me that blaming VQA for bad wine is a bit counterintuitive but it seems to be all the rage in the media these days, and (sadly) almost qualifies as one of the latest wine trends. I suggest that if you really want to see lots of bad wine, then changing the parameters at VQA is a good place to start. I do agree that there is lots of dull wine out there, regardless of origin, but one of the joys of capitalism is that the marketplace sorts it out and the cream get to rise to the top. In theory, at least!”

Ed. Note (Louise’s letter): The question I get is simply, “Why does Ontario make so much bad wine?” Qualifying the term would just make things more difficult – I believe they mean ‘not to their taste’ … point being made here was that there is “bad” wine being made all over the globe and Ontario is not the sole maker of said “bad” wine.

On the other hand Michele seems to have her finger on why Ontario is perceived to make “bad” wine, and I couldn’t agree more with her when she says:
“I agree with your point about the good, the bad and the ugly everywhere. I would also add that our collective Ontario palates have been trained to thing hot climate wines are the owners of the “good” category, while refined, balanced cool climate wines are “bad”. Perception is everything in a beauty contest.”
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John had a question about the VQA:

“Could you please expand upon this: "We could blame the VQA … which stops winemakers from finding their own voice and own style and forces them to conform, thus causing a glut of similarity and, what we’ll call, ‘lackluster-itis’."”

Ed. Note (John’s letter): John also said that if I had written about the issue previously I could just point him in the direction of that newsletter … John, I have two for you: Newsletter #217 – Sorry to Bring this up Again (Nov. 2013) & Newsletter #181 – Rebranding VQA (May 2012)
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Below, Elaine makes a few interesting observations and asked for my take on a certain court ruling that has just occurred:

“Hey, what did you think of the verdict in the De Maria trial? I've tasted and bought some of his product. It’s good. VQA is at a cross roads I feel. Yes it did great to get quality standards up. Now it has to also encourage unique flavours as well. As a wine lover, I love finding wines that express the grape and the terroir and the winemaker’s skill from EVERYWHERE. Wine is a gift from the earth to share and enjoy.

Ed. Note (Elaine’s letter): Well Elaine, I agree that VQA does not have the power to retroactively remove their approval from a wine that they have previously approved just because the winery in question no longer has VQA’s seal of approval … just like I can’t downgrade the score of a wine a few months later because we find out the winemaker is a racist. On the other hand, I did read the Star article that brought this issue to light with more than just a passing interest.
What concerns me is this quote right here:
“At that point — three quarters of the way into the fermenting process — DeMaria figured he had nothing left to lose. So, he says, he got creative, though he won’t specify exactly how. “It’s like making a sauce,” he says. “Let’s throw something in and see what happens.”
… it should be disclose what he did to the wine (not in detail he has a point about a recipe) but he should have to come clean as to what it is he did. If he can’t (or won’t) that leaves the entire issue in question. Hey, the Austrian’s were adding something secretly to their wines in the 80’s – I’m just saying.

And still more feedback for Newsletter #232

“Generalizing is often not useful but I'll state my experience over many decades of purchasing and more recently evaluating imported and local wines. A 'bad' imported wine is usually priced below $20. I have to depend on tastings of previous vintages but find an inconsistency year to year in this grouping. A 'bad' Ontario wine can be anywhere from $15 to $40. For value and taste preference I depend on certain Ontario wineries, mostly privately owned, over many others corporate and private ... and vintage can be a large factor. Not stated but inferred by consumers' criticism of ON wines could be a value factor. Are 'they' worth it! – WW

“VQA does restrict the industry, how can a business “think out of the box” when a VQA panel decides what quality is through their sensory evaluation? A wine that follows VQA rules will fit into a box; a great wine is complex, harmonious and often intriguing … and expands the restrictions of what a varietal “SHOULD” taste like. The VQA forces rules onto creativity, killing passion and innovation. – Karen

Newsletter #230 – Why Ontario Will Never Go Private

Bob has his reasons why Ontario will never see private wine stores:

“The government is making a pile of money which would be reduced if the LCBO has to supervise more independent stores, where the stores could bring in product above and beyond the LCBO list. The big couple “Canadian” wineries make most of the wine that is sold, and hence produce the largest slice of Canadian wine tax revenue, giving them significant ear time. They also buy most of the grapes sold to wineries in Canada which gives them more power because of the threat of not buying those grapes if International-Canadian rules were to be disadvantageously amended. The growers who supply these grapes do not want to rock the boat. Some have tried and look where that got them. There is no likelihood of any change in the LCBO that isn’t LCBO supported which also means supported by the big couple where their interests are involved. Alberta doesnt have a wine industry.”

Newsletter #225 – Talking About a Revolution

Nancy asks a good question about my revolutionary article, which also prompted a discussion on the Twitter-based 10pm Wednesday night gab fest #ONWineChat:

Your suggestion that the wineries or a private owner should just go ahead and open up one or more private stores reminds me of how another monopoly was battled in the 1980’s.

Bell Canada had a monopoly on phones and phone systems in Ontario. People and businesses could only rent equipment, not purchase it. An upstart company in Toronto called the Canadian Telecommunications Group (CTG) started up and offered customers the chance to purchase their phone systems. I worked there when it first started and the practice wasn’t even legal yet. We got the backing of several high profile risk taker companies who knew there would be legal challenges and smaller companies followed suit. They also promoted upcoming wonder systems from Mitel (a Canadian company) which would not have been offered as soon, or ever, were it not for CTG. CTG won the right to exist. Eventually Bell tried to get on the band wagon to try to win back some of that business and formed BCSI (Bell Communications Systems Inc.). I worked there too. BCSI was eventually rolled into Mother Bell since owning your own system had become main stream.

It takes people who are early adopters and willing to take risks to push changes like this. Where are those risk-taking entrepreneurs or wineries today to make this revolution against the LCBO happen?

Final word for this Newsletter goes to Allan … who’s words are music to my ears:

"God Bless you for your Revolution rant. I agree with you there is a revolution brewing right now."

Until next time, keep those comments and emails coming in; and as always thanks for reading.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines

Coyote’s Run 2012 Pinot Noir, Black Paw Vineyard - $29.95 (W)
www.coyotesrunwinery.com
Once again in the battle between Black Paw and Red Paw Pinot from Coyote’s Run I preferred the more feminine Red Paw – but that does not mean the Black should be discounted in any way (when it comes to these wines it really is personal preference). Black delivers the more “manly” earthy, black cherry aromas right from the get go; palate displays sour black cherry and cranberry fruit along with a more toasty, oaky, earthy finish. This one definitely knows how to flex its muscles. Price: $29.95 – Rating: ****

Coyote’s Run 2012 Pinot Noir, Red Paw Vineyard - $24.95 (W)
www.coyotesrunwinery.com
Once again in the battle between Black and Red Paw Pinots I have crowned the Red Paw my favourite (I believe only once I have preferred the Black) – but both are still excellent wines this year. The nose is floral / violet with cherry creeping in the back; flavours keep the floral and turn the cherries black all while delivering on a good tannin / acid mix. What I dig here is the delicacy and sheer finesse that this wine displays. Price: $24.95 – Rating: ****+

Featherstone 2013 Sauvignon Blanc - $17.95 (W, L)
www.featherstonewinery.ca
A mid-winter trip to New Zealand gave winemaker Dave Johnson a bright idea when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc: bottling early keeps that freshness. By doing so Dave keeps those great aromatics of grapefruit cocktail and grassiness … palate is very expressive with lovely citrus notes and white fruit that has an almost creamy texture yet with acidity that swings in to cleanse, there’s also citrus pulp lingering long after the swallow: in the form of citrus tri-fecta of grapefruit, lime and orange. Price: $17.95 – Rating: ****+

Lailey 2012 Cabernet-Merlot - $15.95 (W)
www.laileyvineyard.com
This value priced red from Lailey is now in its third edition, and while it’s a “restaurant only” wine you do have the opportunity to bring it home if you head down to the winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake. A blend of Merlot (49%), Cabernet Franc (35%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (16%) that has sweet dark fruit and delicate, approachable tannins. Blueberry, raspberry, cassis, and cocoa all make a welcome appearance. Price: $15.00 – Rating: ****+

Le Clos Jordanne 2011 Pinot Noir, Village Reserve - $30.00 (L)
www.leclosjordanne.com
One of the better bottles of Village from Le Clos in a few years anyway. Nose is smoky, strawberry along with vanilla and cranberry. Palate pulls off a subtle earthiness, adds layers of strawberry, raspberry and spicy-smoked-cranberries to the mix; then finishes with acidity and that certain flair de finesse good Pinot has. This one gets better with each sip. Price: $30.00 – Rating: ****+

Malivoire 2009 Pinot Noir, Alive - $24.95 (W)
www.malivoire.com
This is a very pretty and ultimately drinkable Pinot Noir. Black cherry and vanilla greet the nose, which follows onto the palate with nice acidity cutting through (a hallmark of the ’09 vintage). It all finishes with a lovely mix of black cherry, cranberry and spice. Another example of simplicity in a wine, making it very good. Price: $24.95 – Rating: ****

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Regular Weekly Videos
Video #87 – Niagara College 2012 Balance Sauvignon Blanc
Video #88 – Rockway Vineyard 2011 Small Lot Meritage

Value Wine Week:
Video #82 – Vineland 2012 Cabernet Franc
Video #83 – Cattail Creek 2012 Cabernet-Merlot
Video #84 – Hillebrand 2012 Trius Cabernet Sauvignon
Video #85 – Coyote's Run 2012 Pinot Noir
Video #86 – Kittling Ridge 2012 Limited Ediiton Barrel Fermented Chardonnay

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Why Sagrantino is also good for Summer
Chardonnay, Cool Again This Year

On the Road with the Grape Guy (blog)
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Montefalco: a Journey of Sagrantino, Day 1
Montefalco: a Journey of Sagrantino, Day 2
Montefalco: a Journey of Sagrantino, Day 3
Montefalco: a Journey of Sagrantino, Day 4

NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog): the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted)
Nothing New This Week
and Check out past reviews here

NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
July 19 coming soon on the new website

Words of Advice

Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

The 8th Annual Six4Six - Tickets on sale NOW ... Legend has it that this event was thought of over a barrel tasting between Huff winemaker Frederic Picard and Chef Bryan Steele. While tasting the same grape through various barrel vintages they came up with the idea to match particular dishes with various barrel samples of chardonnay and pinot noir, and Six Barrels for Six Chefs was born. Book your tickets now for one of the best food and wine events in Ontario. Friday July 11, 2014 at Huff Estates in Prince Edward County Find all the details here

Wine Country's Favourite Summer Festival is Back! ... Trius Jazz: July 12, 2014 and Trius Blues: August 9, 2014. Trius Jazz & Blues at the Winery has been bringing premier Canadian talent to Niagara's wine country for 25 years. This year marks their 25th anniversary. Choose from a variety of ticket options and experiences that include Vineyard Lawn Seating, Trius Red Lounge, Trius Winery Restaurant Patio Seating and Backstage Pass. Get your tickets and find more info here.

NJF – Niagara Jazz Festival - August 22 – 24 at various venues around the region … check out all the details here.

Red White & Blues in the County is back … Fans of Canadian blues will be treated to a fantastic late summer weekend at four of the most picturesque Prince Edward County Winery Estates; featuring multi-Award-winning performers such as Soulstack, Steve Strongman, Jack de Keyzer and Al Lerman. It all begin September 12 and runs to the 14. See all the details right here.

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of: he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges. He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes. Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

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