Newsletter #237 - Pearls of Wisdom

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OntarioWineReview Newsletter 237 September 2014

• WineReview: Pearls of Wisdom
  

• Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
  

• Bi-Weekly OWR Updates:  Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

• Wine Event Spotlight:  See What's Going on in Wine Country

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WineReview:  Pearls of Wisdom

The Sting of Rejection is Softened …
It’s been a story for most of the summer, the failure of VQA to allow a certain winery’s wines to pass, and that winery’s feeling of being “black-balled” by Ontario’s wine governing body.  Much ink has been spilled and miles of finger movements over keyboards have been logged in writing favourably about the winery, its wines, its pro-creativity and forward thinking-ness when it comes to the wines it makes; and how the big bad VQA stymies them at every turn.

But wait, those who feel sorry for Pearl Morissette aren't paying close enough attention ... The publicity this winery has received for its wines is amazing and if they can't sell out now (of this wine), they have a bigger problem than not passing VQA.  The best thing that could have happened to this barely known (outside certain circles) winery is the rejection of the VQA’s approval; they've made this winery a household name, or at least a topic of conversation over the dinner table.  The interesting part of the whole matter is this: the industry people I have talked to almost all universally find the wines to be borderline flawed or at best poorly made.  Interesting.  Veteran winemakers are the most vocal about the problems they have with these wines, and even those who find the VQA a "thorn in my side", " the biggest pain in the ass" and "a bunch of no-nothing hacks" who "curb creativity in Ontario wine making" can't seem to side with Pearl Morissette when he is making "faulty wine and then crying that the VQA is against him".

Don’t get me wrong, the VQA could use a tweak or two and if this is the winery that gets us talking about it then great – but let’s not forget he’s getting all the attention, they were the must try wine of the summer, and for that Pearl Morissette should be thanking the VQA.

Free Trade ...
Read an article in The Star this week that gave me hope about this provincial government, they are finally, or should I say might, give the green light to interprovincial trade of wine with BC (after two years of being allowed to by the federal side of the government).  But it’s the last line in the article that gives me pause for concern: "A key hurdle has been that the Liquor Control Board of Ontario, the province’s booze monopoly, doesn’t want to lose any revenue.".  If I buy wine straight from the winery the LCBO would not be losing revenue because most likely I'm not buying any of the wines the LCBO is selling, instead I'm getting the small lot, award winning wines the LCBO can't stock because their made in such limited quantity.  The provincial government would still get their cut cause the sale is made in Ontario and everything from the liquor tax to the HST would still be going into their coffers ... So what's the issue? Again: "A key hurdle has been that the Liquor Control Board of Ontario, the province’s booze monopoly, doesn’t want to lose any revenue." ... Proving yet again what I've always insinuated, the LCBO sees the wineries as competition and god-forbid they lose a dollar in (perceived) revenue to them ... Or maybe, just maybe we'll learn that we don't need them as much as they thought.  Sacre bleu.

Big Brother Knows Best ...
But wait, just when you thought it was safe to jump back into the water the government goes and pulls this out of their hat:  “We believe Ontarians are well served by the current model,” in another Star article the government seems to have no intention of dismantling or loosening the grip that the LCBO has on this province citing the same gas-baggery they have always touted, “Last year, the LCBO generated $1.74 billion in transfers to the province, the 20th consecutive year the agency has increased its dividend to the province,” ... This despite another in a series of reports, this time from the C.D. Howe Institute, claiming the current model is neither the best nor most effective for both the public or revenue to the government. This echoes the 2005 BASR report that pretty much said the exact same thing ... And that one was commissioned by the very government in power then as is now. This independent report just confirms the findings of 10 years ago.  Makes you wonder whose really in control of the government? It has been surmised to me thus: the LCBO is the last bastion for pork-belly government appointment positions after the demise of Ontario Power Authority and the Ontario Lottery and Gaming Commission, each was ripe with scandal ... The LCBO on the other hand brings a profit in every year and scandals can be hidden very well by a billion dollar plus bottom line ... Oui?.  And besides, who couldn’t make a billion-plus selling alcohol when they’re the only game in town?  If this was run by private enterprise it’d be a multi-billion business, but then big brother knows best, right?

And Finally ...
Wanna make the LCBO more ineffectual and onerus, why not put the fox in charge of the hen house, so to speak. As the Globe and Mail article suggests (How Ontario premier rejected union leader’s offer to buy LCBO - August 28, 2014) we're in no immediate danger but if you could imagine the chaos:  "The leader of one of Ontario’s largest public sector unions has been quietly pressing the government to turn over ownership of its liquor monopoly to his members’ pension plan – an idea that earned him a smack-down from Premier Kathleen Wynne’s office during June’s provincial election."

And you thought wages were out of control at the board now?  But truthfully, the trouble with this kind of take-over would be riff with problems.  You know what; I don’t even want to think about it, it makes my teeth itch.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  New and Noteworthy Wines

Back 10 Cellars 2012 Cabernet Franc – The Big Leap - $28.95 (W)
www.back10cellars.com
Back 10 Cellars is a small, new winery on King Street (main wine route trail) in Beamsville, that has a story to tell about living your dreams and taking a chance … hence “The Big Leap”.  This Franc is one you should leap into action to get your hands on: 1 year in 4 barrels of different ages, 25% of which were American and ranging in age from new to 4 years old … they made a grand total of 80 cases.  Nose is smoky with raspberry and cassis notes; flavours are lush and sexy of fruit with raspberry and cherry with a nice spicy character on the lovely mid-length finish.  I have a feeling we’ll be hearing a lot more from the Back 10.  Price: $28.95 – Rating: ****+

Charles Baker 2012 Riesling, Picone Vineyard - $35.00 (O)
www.charlesbaker.ca
This Riesling comes from the 35 year old vines of the Picone Vineyard site located on the Vinemount Ridge sub-appellation of Niagara … ’12 was a hot year, so not one that you’d think would make a mighty fine Riesling – but this just might be the best Baker Picone yet.  This one is dryer than usual, which helps give the wine a more noticeable lime, mineral, peach pit and green apple core – there’s also some hints of herbaceous-ness … but all that does is give the wine a vibrant nervy intensity.  Price: $35.00 – Rating: ****+

Domaine Queylus 2011 Pinot Noir, Reserve du Domaine - $45.00 (W)
www.queylus.com
Let’s begin the story of the new DQ winery with the name:  the first people to make wine on the shores of Niagara were monks in 1670 and their superior’s name was Queylus … hence Domaine Queylus – any questions?  Good, we’ll move on.  This is also the first winery located in the area of West Lincoln, so there’s something else that makes this place special. Their winemaker is none other than Thomas Bachelder, so that might spark your interest a little further and so as you would expect the winery’s focus is Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the expression of those grapes from vineyard specific sites.  The Reserve du Domaine is taken from the centre of both of their main vineyards (totalling 22.7 acres).  The nose is all about richness of fruit:  strawberry, black cherry and black raspberry, while the palate shows the balance of the vintage for Pinot Noir with dark fruit, but with finesse and elegance at its very core:  strawberry, raspberry, spiced plum, Christmas spice and a little bit of pencil shavings helping to balance it out.  Price: $45.00 – Rating: ****+

Norman Hardie 2013 Pinot Gris - $25.00 (W)
www.normanhardie.com
Gris / Grigio is extremely popular these days, but some can be extremely boring, and that’s something Norm Hardie knows all too well.  That’s why he makes a concerted effort to make his Gris special:  wild fermented, 4 months on lees with constant stirring.  The result is a mineral driven Gris especially on the nose, where you’ll find citrus in the form of lime; while on the palate lime juice, lemon pith, good acidity and that great County minerality.  I said a few months ago that Gris might be the next great grape for the County and Norm Hardie has taken it to that next level.  Price: $25.00 – Rating: ****+

Rosewood 2013 Semillon - $18.00 (W)
www.rosewoodwine.com
This is really a sad story with an uplifting ending:  I have to inform all you lovers of Rosewood Semillon that you’ll have to get your Sem-fix elsewhere.  Due to the damage brought about by winter-2013 the vines did not survive … and so it’s with a heavy heart that I must report this’ll be the last Semillon Rosewood is likely to make; but as Sean Connery learned portraying James Bond on film “Never Say Never Again”.  But if I had to say my goodbyes with one vintage of this wine, this would be the one.  Nose of lanolin, apple sauce, exotic fruits (like pineapple and mango) leading to flavours of green apple, pear, apricot and pretty hints of mineral to back it all up along with mango and great acidity on the finish.  So long Sem, we were just getting to know you.  Price: $18.00 – Rating: ****+

Stoney Ridge 2013 Pinot Grigio - $13.95 (W, L)
www.stoneyridgewinery.com
I’ll admit it, Stoney Ridge has been off my radar for a few years; ever since I walked in and the woman behind the counter informed me that the decanted Pinot Grigio (?) she was serving, which was clearly oxidized beyond belief was actually “the house style” … goodbye.  Fast forward to new ownership (again) and new winemaker (Jeff Hundertmark) and you have a new lease on life at the winery.  This Grigio is a great start with lots of pear, peach and apple notes all backed by a zippy lime zest to keep it dry where it counts and it has kept a pile of acidity. Seems to be a cross of Gris / Grigio styles with plenty of citrus and bosc pear skin on the long finish.  Price: $13.95 – Rating: ****

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) –  OL (On-Line).

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Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

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Video #98 – Stoney Ridge 2013 Pinot Grigio

Last Gasp of Summer Week Week (August 25-29, 2014):
Monday - Featherstone 2013 Black Sheep Riesling
Tuesday - Huff Estates 2013 Rose
Wednesday - Charles Baker 2012 Riesling, Picone Vineyard
Thursday - Rosewood 2013 Semillon
Friday - Fielding 2013 Lot 17 Riesling

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Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

The Pinot Affair Returns (4th Annual) … It's that time of year again:  Niagara wineries want you to have an affair with Pinot Noir.  10 wineries showcase some of their best Pinots for you to fall in love with.  October 18th & 19th, 10am-5pm – tickets are $40 and can be found here.

Peller Party in the Vineyard … Winning the 2014 Winery of the Year has put Peller in a celebratory mood, so dust off your Stetson and cowboy boots to Party in the Vineyard at Peller Estates Winery on September 13, from 5-10 pm.  Line dance the night away with a boot-stomping country DJ, up-and-coming opening act, and Juno award-winning artist Brett Kissel!  Tickets are $39 per person plus HST.  

Calling All Garlic Lovers … Toronto Garlic Festival is coming Sunday, September 21, 2014 at Evergreen Brick Works.  Stock up on rare heirloom varieties while tasting delicious garlic dishes prepared by local chefs. Find all the details by clicking here.   Also check out the new The Garlic Map – Available here

Red White & Blues in the County is back … Fans of Canadian blues will be treated to a fantastic late summer weekend at four of the most picturesque Prince Edward County Winery Estates; featuring multi-Award-winning performers such as Soulstack, Steve Strongman, Jack de Keyzer and Al Lerman.  It all begin September 12 and runs to the 14.  See all the details right here.

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