Newsletter #238 - The Needs of the Many ...
18 Sep 2014- Details
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OntarioWineReview Newsletter 238September 2014
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WineReview: The Needs of the Many ...
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Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
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Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
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Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country
WineReview: The Needs of the Many ...“The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few … or the one.”
- Spock, Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan (1982)
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I read with interest and excitement (which quickly turned to horror) the article written by my colleague and friend Rick Vansickle about the “shocking stance that the boss of WGAO is taking on privatization” ... I invite you to do the same; but be warned the comments made by Patrick Gedge (head of the Winery and Grower Alliance of Ontario) are as shocking as they are wrong minded (see original article in the St. Catharines Standard). Since Mr. Gedge has deemed to call for the status quo here in Ontario, while everyone else is demanding change … I think we should look at WGAO a little closer to see whom they are representing and what they are defending.
Here’s the list of wineries as cited by Mr. Vansickle in his article and found at www.wgao.com: Andrew Peller Limited, Bricklayer’s Predicament, Chateau des Charmes, Colio Estate Wines, Constellation Brands, Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards, Crush, Dan Aykroyd Wines, De Sousa Wines, Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits, EastDell Estates, Fresh Wines, G. Marquis, Girls Night Out, Hillebrand Showcase, Inniskillin Wines, Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery, John Howard Cellars of Distinction, Kittling Ridge, Lake & River, Lakeview Cellars, Le Clos Jordanne, Magnotta Winery, Mastronardi Estate Winery, Megalomaniac, Milan Wineries, NHL Alumni Wines (Hat Trick), Niagara College Teaching Winery, Peller Estates, Seasons De Sousa Wine Cellars, Small Talk Vineyards, Stonechurch Vineyards, Thirty Bench Wine Makers, Trius, 20 Bees Wines, Two Sisters Vineyards, Vinoteca Inc. Premium Winery, Wayne Gretzky Estates No.99 (38 in total).
The first thing you must understand about the “list of wineries” the WGAO is purporting to represent is that more than half are wine brands and not actual wineries: Bricklayer’s Predicament is the newest label from Colio Estate Wines, which falls under the same umbrella as Girls Night Out (which is also listed) – that’s one winery but with three listings. The same can be said for Seasons De Sousa Wine Cellars, which is part of De Sousa Wines, which in turn is owned by Diamond Estates along with EastDell, Lakerview, 20 Bees, Dan Aykroyd, Fresh, and Hat Trick (that’s actually nine for the price of one if you include Diamond themselves, who are also listed). The shell game continues with Hillebrand Showcase, listed as its own entity, but is actually part and parcel of the Andrew Peller Limited Group along with Trius, Thirty Bench, Wayne Gretzky and of course Peller Estates. The cross pollination of all these brands is ridiculous and to call them all wineries is a fallacy of the highest. Some of these purported labels don’t even have a physical address to call home.
I have to admit it does not surprise me to see the likes of Peller and Constellation on the list, they both have private wine stores in this convoluted system we have here in Ontario (160 Wine Rack – Constellation / 100 Wine Shop - Peller) and thus they have a vested interest in keeping the staus quo: which is, besides the LCBO they are the only place in town at which to buy wine … so why wouldn’t they be in favour of keeping things just the way they are.
What does surprise me are some of the smaller wineries whose names appear on the list; wineries that do not benefit from this organization and its stance on privatization. WGAO supports a slanted playing field and yet wineries like Cooper’s Hawk and Mastronardi (both from the Lake Erie North Shore); Niagara’s Megalomaniac and Stonechurch Vineyards (which are themselves listed twice as John Howard Cellars of Distinction and Small Talk Vineyards respectively) Two Sisters Vineyards and Niagara College Teaching Winery … all small wineries who would benefit from an open market, yet get nothing from the current system besides restrictions as to where they can sell and their own cellar door from which to operate from.
So in truth the WGAO represents about six major wineries, a few smaller producers and a crap-load of wine brands owned by one of six wineries or companies (ie: Constellation, Andrew Peller Limited and Diamond). So how can I even trust an organization that shows that kind of complete disregard of the truth and tries to pull the wool over people’s eyes. Going back to the list you read earlier, if you remove all the subsidiaries and brand-only labels should read thus:
Andrew Peller Limited, Chateau des Charmes, Colio Estate Wines, Constellation Brands, Cooper’s Hawk Vineyards, Diamond Estates Wines & Spirits, John Howard Cellars of Distinction, Magnotta Winery, Mastronardi Estate Winery, Milan Wineries, Niagara College Teaching Winery, Stonechurch Vineyards, Two Sisters Vineyards, Vinoteca Inc. Premium Winery (14 in total).
That’s a much different and much shorter list than the one they publish.
But let’s move away from that for a moment and try to forget that blatant misrepresentation of the number of wineries they represent and get to the heart of the matter. I believe Mr. Vansickle has hit the nail on the head with his criticism of Patrick Gedge and WGAO as well as summing up the CD Howe report succinctly enough. But what Mr. Vansickle has not addressed is the complete mess this province is in when it comes to its’ wine lobby groups. One (WGAO) is happy with the way things are, they’re in love with the LCBO / monopoly system, which they actually flourish within because of, as Rick so delicately put it, “those “private” stores that are all owned by WGAO members because of some archaic rule that allows licenses that existed pre-NAFTA to carry on seemingly until the end of time.” Why in the world would they want to endorse change, they’ve got it made in the shade: or to put it another way: they have the roller skates and the key so no co-operation is necessary (thanks to Joni Mitchell for that analogy).
On the other hand, there are the have-nots, the Winer Council of Ontario, who lobby for change on behalf of their members, the more than 95% of wineries in this province who sell to restaurants, the LCBO and out their cellar door ONLY; with nary a sniff at a private wine shop in a mall, inside a grocery store, or a free-stander on Yonge Street. They rely heavily on sales through the monopoly, if they can even get a listing amongst the “sea of ICB swill that has no other place to go but the LCBO … and [has been] confusing consumers for decades.” (Rick Vansickle). The two organizations are at cross purposes and yet each has the government’s ear in the vein of the devil on one shoulder and angel on the other.
If you ever wonder why this province is in such a mess and can’t seem to get its act together when it comes to alcohol sales, look no further than the WGAO versus WCO battle the rages on.
If you’ll permit me one more analogy I’ll leave you with this one. Think of WGAO as the powerful gun lobby in the United States (the NRA) and WCO as the anti-gun lobby; the CD Howe Institute has just walked into the LCBO and fired the shots that have killed the notion that a monopoly system is the best and most effective way to handle alcohol sales in this province … the people rally around the anti-gun lobby: we need gun control now, get guns off the street … yet somehow the NRA manages to sway the politicians and political thinking their way by making more noise and using scare tactics. A perfect example of the few holding the many hostage for their own selfish interests.
The USA has the NRA, Ontario has WGAO.
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy WinesClosson Chase 2012 Chardonnay, South Clos - $39.95 (W)
www.clossonchase.com
As is pretty typical for Closson Chase, this own vineyard Chardonnay is big and bold, made even more so because of the hotter than usual 2012 vintage. On the nose there’s baked-caramel-apple, lime meringue, butter, creamed corn and vanilla … Palate has a creamy vanilla start that is backed by lime zest and good acidity … even more impressive is the hazelnut/almond butterscotch finish that lingers but does not come across overly sweet because of that acid kick. Price: $39.95 – Rating: ****+
Featherstone 2012 Chardonnay, Canadian Oak - $21.95 (W, L)
www.featherstonewinery.ca
How much more Canadian can you get then this: Canadian grapes, aged in Canadian oak, using indigenous (wild) yeast. Sounds like home to me. Wine spends 12 months in 25% new oak and has become quite an exciting wine in the process. Nose is butterscotch, vanilla and coconut husk; palate proves just as exciting with coconut, butterscotch, sweet banana skin and a nice toasty-ness. Ballsy use of oak has given spiciness to the finish and the acidity balances out the apparent sweetness … this one is still young so the fruit should emerge within a year or two. Price: $21.95 – Rating: ****
Lailey 2012 Riesling - $18.00 (W, L)
www.laileyvineyard.com
Nothing beats a crisp, brisk, low alcohol Riesling – they are the kind of wines you can drink bottles of all afternoon long … Lailey seems to have produced that kind of Riesling with this 2012 version. The nose has grapefruit, floral and apricot notes – with the surprise being the grapefruit … on the palate the floral continues in the form of apple blossom, there’s also some pear and yellow apple. The sweet and acidity balance delicately on the tongue keeping this wine fresh and shippable with some tip of the tongue bite. Citrus and the yellow apple linger on the finish. Price: $18.00 – Rating: ****
Pondview 2012 Cabernet Franc, Bella Terra - Unfiltered (W)
www.pondviewwinery.com
I love being around for a major wine making decision – which just happened to be the case when winemaker Fred DiProfio wandered into the tasting room and popped the following question to owner Lou Puglisi: “have we made a decision to filter or unfilter the Bella Terra reds?” What followed was a tasting of two 2010 Bella Francs, the released version versus a special bottling of an unfiltered version. The rest, as they say is history, and has given these wines a great future. Aromas fill the air once poured: raspberry, vanilla, cinnamon and smoke followed by spice and pepper on the palate – give it a little more time and raspberry and cassis show up backed by big, bold tannins … the yin and yang of this wine is the aggressive start but silky smooth smoky finish … 10 years is a conservative ageing estimate. Price: $34.95 – Rating: **** ½
Tawse 2010 Meritage - $59.95 (W)
www.tawsewinery.ca
Tawse is a place known for their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but over the years they’ve begun dabbling in other varieties, like Riesling, Gamay Noir, Cabernet Franc and Merlot … so it only stands to reason that a Meritage was not far in the future and in a year like 2010 why not make a beauty. This Merlot dominated red blend (46%) has aromas of blackberry, plum and cherry, along with smoky vanilla notes. Taste is balanced with good acidity and ripe tannins along with black cherry, cassis and baker’s cocoa, all ending with a mid-length finish. By the way, there is also 39% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon in the wine. Price: $59.95 – Rating: ****+
TerraCello 2013 Riesling - $18.80 (W)
www.terracellowinery.com
It’s not often that a new winery can storm out of the gate with a delightful Riesling such as this, but Terra Cello is Prince Edward County seems to have done just that. Nose is a symphony of white and summer fruit: pears and peaches lure you in; the palate is a delight of fruit forwardness in the form of pear, peach and limeade, which helps to provide the balance of acidity. Price: $18.80 – Rating: ****
Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).
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The Pinot Affair Returns (4th Annual) … It's that time of year again: Niagara wineries want you to have an affair with Pinot Noir. 10 wineries showcase some of their best Pinots for you to fall in love with. October 18th & 19th, 10am-5pm – tickets are $40 and can be found here.
Calling All Garlic Lovers … Toronto Garlic Festival is coming Sunday, September 21, 2014 at Evergreen Brick Works. Stock up on rare heirloom varieties while tasting delicious garlic dishes prepared by local chefs. Find all the details by clicking here. Also check out the new The Garlic Map – Available here
TASTE Community Grown, Prince Edward County’s premier culinary event, will take place Saturday, September 27, 2014 from 11:00 am to 6:00 pm at the Crystal Palace in Picton, Ontario. Attendees will be able to sip and nibble their way through this annual showcase of the best that Prince Edward County has to offer in food, farm products, restaurants, wineries, and craft breweries. New this year, wineries will be selling VQA wines at the farmers' market. Admission is $30 includes 10 tasting tickets and more. Details can be found here.
Planning to be in Japan over Thanksgiving … then this is for you: https://www.facebook.com/events/1464284930500346
The Third Annual Grape Escape at Mastronardi in Lake Erie North Shore happens October 18, 2014 starting at 8pm … see what happening by clicking here.
Rancourt Winery 1st ever Winemaker’s Dinner … Thursday September 25, 2014 … details can be found on the following Facebook Page.
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