Newsletter #239 - Deep Throat Speaks

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Category: Newsletter Archives

OntarioWineReview Newsletter 239 October 2014

• WineReview: Deep Throat Speaks
  

• Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: New and Noteworthy Wines
  

• Bi-Weekly OWR Updates:  Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

• Wine Event Spotlight:  See What's Going on in Wine Country

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WineReview:  Deep Throat Speaks

Can we talk here??? To many those four words will forever be linked with the late Joan Rivers, but to me it is usually the beginning of a phone call or face-to-face with some winemaker, owner or other insider who has dirt to dish, but doesn’t want it attributed to them. In other words “off the record” – I’ve heard this so much more than I ever thought I would, so much so that I could write a book … but then I couldn’t ever publish it. I find it amazing that in a “free society” like ours that there’s such a fear out there about criticizing the wine industry by the industry itself … but that’s a story for another time. Last week I got one of those calls that started just this way and then turned into something much more interesting.

Now, usually, at a time like this, I’d do some digging to see if what I am told is true or not (but I don’t doubt this one), I think I’m just shocked that no one has looked into this before. The issue is whether or not someone, as they say in lawyer speak “with standing” would want to pursue this hot potato issue I’m about to tell you about. What I’m hoping is that with enough of us looking into it the facts will eventually be revealed. Here’s some background to what you’re looking for.

Last time around I wrote about WGAO and the WCO and how both these organization, who represent their vested interest wine groups, are at cross-purposes. One (Winery & Grower Alliance Ontario) want to keep the industry just the way it is: under monopolistic rule; the other (Wine Council of Ontario) purportedly wants change to the system: getting freer (read: more) access to market – something most, if not all WGAO members already have.

Slight aside here, last newsletter I listed the actual members of the WGAO (minus the brands they were claiming as winery members, dropping the published number to 14 from the 38 it claimed). One of those wineries listed (Mastronardi) got in touch to say they have not been a member for at least two years; which makes me skeptical about the rest of the smaller winery members on the list. Sounds like WGAO is the Hotel California of wine lobby groups, “You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave.”

As mentioned, most, if not all, WGAO members have access to market beyond their own cellar doors; meaning a free-standing retail outlet, be it in a mall, supermarket, street corner or anywhere else they deem to have one; and everybody just assumes they own these stores (including yours truly).

But, according to my caller (we’ll call this person ‘Deep Throat’), those retail licenses, coveted so dearly by their holding winery, have the same value as working in the inner circle of POTUS … you serve at the pleasure of the President … those extra retail outlets in Ontario are actually owned by the province and are licensed, just like a winery is licensed, and the license can be revoked or removed at any time and given to someone else, if the government so chooses. Think about that for a moment: the licenses can be returned to the government for redistribution … at least that’s how it was written in the Free Trade agreement (or so I am told).

The precedence that the licenses were “owned” actually goes back to the sale of Inniskillin to Jackson-Triggs … it was not the actual winery that Jackson-Triggs was after, but those off-site licenses that made the company so valuable (upwards of $250,000 each – according to sources). It was the government of the day that gave the nod to these extra retail outlets transferring hands.

That’s where the intrigue of the matter lies … while the government of the day awarded the rights to sell the licenses with the Inniskillin sale, they also had the right to revoke those very same licenses or re-distribute them; and they hold that same power today – if they choose to use it. If that is indeed the case, then the government’s usual reason for not allowing VQA-stores “we can’t give out any new licenses”, is only partially true: while they can’t make new licenses available they could certainly revoke and redistribute the ones that are already out there.

That’s right, the government could re-distribute those licenses if they wished. And if they ever consider it I say we start with those ones owned by the former Vincor, now Constellation … Why? Because they are no longer a company in Canadian hands, Constellation is run out of New York, and their 160 stores could easily be broken up and re-distributed … the licenses they use are at the pleasure of the government of Ontario, and if the government wanted to they could move them around. Think of it as the “fast way” to play the board game Monopoly, where you randomly pass out the properties at the beginning of the game.

Bruce Walker, the former PR man for Vincor, once told me that Vincor offered up some of their stores to the industry and the industry didn’t want them “due to the cost of running them”. I thought it was total BS at the time and still do to this day. But since he put it out there I call upon Constellation to make good on Bruce’s “offer” and pledge some of their stores to the other wineries, to show good faith and that they support a free market. How about they start with 60, evening up the playing field with Peller at 100 and allowing smaller wineries to get in the game the big boys have been playing unopposed for all these many years.

But we all know they won’t … WGAO said so themselves … and Constellation is represented by WGAO – they have no intention of leveling the playing field or making the game fair, they like it just the way it is – I would like it too if the other team never got up to bat, the Jays might even have made the playoffs this year if that were the case.

Personally I think Constellation should do it before we find out that Deep Throat was right and demand they give them up – or even worse (in Constellation’s eyes) are forced.

It’s all supposedly there in black and white, buried within the pages of the Free Trade agreement … but usually such a document is literally so voluminous nobody bothers to read the details … Your mission, if you so choose to accept it: let’s look into it together.

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch:  New and Noteworthy Wines

13th Street 2011 Cabernet Franc, Essence - $44.95 (W)
www.13thstreetwinery.com
More and more winemakers in Ontario are using a percentage of American oak in the making of their Cabernet Franc, here we have 10%; while the entire wine spent 18 months in oak.  The resulting wine has a pleasant smokiness along with vanilla, red and black currant and cherry.  Price: $44.95 – Rating: ****

Cave Spring Cellars 2014-Tasting NV Dolomite Brut - $24.95 (W, L)
www.cavespringcellars.com
Now this is what I expect from a Dolomite series wine:  lots of mineral; afterall that’s what “Dolomite” represents.  This 100% Chardonnay spends 30 months on lees in the very bottle you buy it in – great acidity from the get go followed by a nice mineral component; there’s also a leesy, bready goodness along with almond, hazelnut, green apple and biscotti … but it’s that mineral, I’m happy to report, that makes this an exciting bubbly.  Price: $24.95 – Rating: ****

Hillebrand 2013 Riesling, Ghost Creek - $25.00 (W)
www.triuswines.com
Not since the first incarnation of this wine, made by Darryl Brooker, back in 2007, has a Ghost Creek Riesling enthralled me this much.  The nose shows a plethora of aromas including floral, pear, peach, apple and that tell-tale sign of good Riesling, minerality (wet stone / talc).  Palate hangs on all that great minerality while adding white fruits and acid in a ratio that balances it out finishing with green apple and more mineral; the length truly is something to write home about.  Price: $25.00 – Rating: **** ½

Malivoire 2010 Pinot Noir, M2 Small Lot – $24.95 (W)
www.malivoire.com
I’m a fan of the M2 Small Lot wines from Malivoire ever since I tasted the first one, which just so happened to be one of my favourite grapes, Gamay Noir.  Now they have applied the M2 formula to Pinot Noir to great effect, this nicely balanced number has black cherry, cranberry, plum and a hint of violets along with a nice spicy finish … pretty and impactful; reaffirms my love of the Small Lot program.  Price: $24.95 – Rating: ****+

Sprucewood Shores 2010 Cabernet Franc, Hawk’s Flight Reserve - $28.95 (W)
www.sprucewoodshores.com
Not sure what it is that attracts me to this wine, could it be the tobacco, strawberry and spices?  Or is it the blackberry and cassis?  Maybe it’s the smokiness and the lingering finish?  On the other hand, maybe it’s how everything comes together in a complete, complex package.  Price: $28.95 - Rating: ****

Stratus 2010 Cabernet Franc - $38.00 (W)
www.stratuswines.com
Not surprised about the depth of flavour to be found in this Stratus Franc, after all they did amazing things with the ’09 version, which was not a particularly strong red wine vintage; so give winemaker JL Groux a hot vintage and watch out.  Cherry and tobacco lead the charge on the nose, while the palate spices it up with cherry, adds raspberry then notes of cigar box and layers in more spice, especially on the finish.  Another wonderful example of Cabernet Franc from Stratus.  Price: $38.00 – Rating: **** ½

Availability legend:  W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) –  OL (On-Line).

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Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

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Video #101 – Niagara College 2011 Dean's List Cabernet Franc
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NEW - Taste it Again / Lost & Found (blog):  the two blogs have merged
(Find out what happened to some favourites and to those that never were tasted) 
Taste it Again: 2005 Cabs from the Chateau
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Taste It Again: Muscedere 2006 Cabernet Franc & Pinot Noir
Taste It Again: Coyote's Run Twofer (Franc & Cabernet)
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NEW NAME - Uncorked Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
September 27, 2014 - Report Available Now
October 11, 2014 - missed tasting due to travel

Wine Event Spotlight: See What's Going on in Wine Country

The Pinot Affair Returns (4th Annual) … It's that time of year again:  Niagara wineries want you to have an affair with Pinot Noir.  10 wineries showcase some of their best Pinots for you to fall in love with.  October 18th & 19th, 10am-5pm – tickets are $40 and can be found here.

Planning to be in Japan over Thanksgiving … then this is for you:  https://www.facebook.com/events/1464284930500346

The Third Annual Grape Escape at Mastronardi in Lake Erie North Shore happens October 18, 2014 starting at 8pm … see what happening by clicking here.

Wrapped up in the Valley ... November 1 & 2, 8 & 9, 15 & 16 details can be found right here.

1st Annual Closson Road Clam Bake! ... At 4pm on October 25th "an unforgettable evening of wine from the Hinterland Wine Company and seafood imported and prepared by 2-time North American oyster shucking champion John Bil.  All the details can be found here.

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