For a 2010 you’d expect this to be mellowing by now, but that is not the case here. Aromas wrestle with the nose: big, dark and brooding fruit with cassis, black cherry and tobacco; flavours ride a wave of tannin grip with cocoa, black fruit, pepper and lots of brute force – after 31 months in oak none of this is surprising, this is a massive wine with plenty of time ahead of it. Don’t be afraid to buy, lie and forget about it for a while. Price: $38.95 – Rating: ****+