Gamay is the Rodney Dangerfield of grapes – it gets absolutely no respect … I blame this partially on the Beaujolais over exposure and the hype of Nouveau, which kicked the crap out of the seriousness of the grape. But here in Ontario there are some wineries determined to bring respect back to this much maligned grape – Malivoire is one of them. Nice peppered-cherry notes which follow on the palate adding raspberry and definitive white pepper to the mix. There’s a nice juiciness here yet with nice balancing acidity. With great Gamays like this being made it’s only a matter of another dozen years before the respect comes back – it’s a long row to hoe but I’m glad there are those willing to take on the job. Price: $29.95 – Rating: ****+