For a grape that was mistakenly planted, winemaker JL Groux has managed to coax the best out of it. The nose is primarily spice driven with cinnamon, nutmeg and pepper ... this mirrors the palate with its spicy dark fruit and peppery finish ... but there's also plenty of tannin and acidity that seems to be fighting it out on the mid to back palate. "Older versions are much more approachable," says JL, so with that in mind, and time, the fruit should come around. Price: $38.00 - Rating: ****