Reviews

Calamus Estate 2005 Meritage
In late January, I was slipped a barrel sample of this wine, and in a discussion with one of the winemakers at Calamus was told, “It’s a BIG wine!” Not wanting to open it up to early, I rested it on the rack for about a month, hoping to avoid any bottle shock that might be present. Now a month later, I popped the cork and agree whole-heartedly with the winemaker’s assessment; this is a BIG wine. Big enough, in fact, that I put it through its paces to see how it would change under different conditions. The Meritage blend in this case, is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Cabernet Franc and only 6% Merlot (about one barrel) from the stellar, yet short cropped, 2005 season. Upon opening, green pepper dominated the nose, but that soon blew off and I was left with tobacco, tar, old leather, charred meat and burnt oak smells … hmmm – big, powerful smells indeed. The palate started the same way as the nose, with some green pepper that dissipated quickly, leaving only oak aromas behind. There was some fruit in the taste but not enough penetrated the oak to be called out definitively. There was also some alcohol heat and full bodiedness that also masked any semblance of fruit flavour. I looked around for a slab of meat to smooth this baby out, but there was none to be found … so I did the next best thing, I grabbed a decanter and a diffuser (funnel to help aerate the wine) to see if I couldn’t soften this sucker up. And lo and behold, we have a winner here. Black raspberry, black currants, blackberries and other dark fruits found their way to the fore of the nose; while black cherries, raspberries and sweet oak washed over the palate. This sure is an age-worthy, steak-ready red. Drink now with a hunk of flesh; decant and chew on some old sharp cheese, or lie it down for 5-plus years and enjoy. This could very well be the coming-of-age wine for Calamus. Hot Tip on a Hot Wine: The truly big 2005 reds are starting to come out in Niagara. While the crop was short that year the reds that I have tasted so far have been magnificent and more are on the way. The first of these big boys to hit the shelves and make a definite splash is one from an upstart winery next to Ball’s Falls. The Calamus Estate Winery 2005 Meritage is the kind of balls-to-the-wall red we should be expecting from the 2005 vintage. Don’t for a second take this one for granted or it’ll sneak up on you and bite you back.
2005
Red
Red Blend
0
$28
Canada
Ontario
Niagara Peninsula
at the winery only
http://www.calamuswines.com
2011-06-11

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