Michael Pinkus Wine Review - Newsletter Archives

Newsletter #222 - LCBO ... amazing access to the largest variety of wines and beers in the world

06 Feb 2014

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OntarioWineReview Newsletter 222

February 2014

OntarioWineReview: "LCBO ... amazing access to the largest variety of wines and beers in the world"
Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Check out the Amazing Chardonnay + 4 more
Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more
Wine Event Spotlight: Winter is Most Definitely Here

OntarioWineReview: "LCBO ... amazing access to the largest variety of wines and beers in the world"

Time to share some of my favourite letters from the past few months.

Feedback from Newsletter #220 …

And we’ll start with this poor misguided soul, who had much to say about my January newsletter (More Promises! More Disappointments?); Michael W. is convinced that Ontario is the greatest place on earth in which to buy alcohol (wine) … I can only assume that poor Michael does not travel outside of Ontario much:

“Please remove me from your mail list.

I too, would like better access to Ontario (and other) wines. However, I do not believe that the liberals are "corrupt".

Yes, you were being political and Anti-Liberal when you joined the "scare-mongering" Conservatives with their biased hyperbole. (Who would privatize the LCBO in a flash - resulting in the end of our amazing access to the largest variety of wines and beers in the world.)

I don't want to receive this kind of sour grapes when I read wine reviews. I can read the Sun if I want tripe.

Feel free to reply once you retract your comments (and show your support for keeping the LCBO alive.)

Michael W.”

I don’t always write back, but I felt this one needed a response, and although I am sure it went un-read, I wrote it anyway; though I have a feeling, even if it was read, it would be paramount to convincing my Fox-watching, Obama-hating father that Global Warming (aka. Climate Change) is an actual phenomenon!

My response went exactly like this:

Sorry to lose you as a subscriber, but unfortunately you are being mislead by the LCBO.

Let's start with the Liberal party - I have for many many, many years felt I was a Liberal but as of late between Orange and the Gas Plants they have let me down. I have not joined the other side (Conservative or NDP) but I, like many Ontarians should feel mislead by this government. Their ideas to "expand" Ontarians access to Ontario wines is misguided at best. The 3 VQA Boutiques they opened late in 2013 were in Niagara, St. Catharines and Windsor ... right near wine country (at most a 20 minute drive to the nearest winery). Michael, honestly, if you were opening VQA Boutiques to expand access for Ontarians would you not open them in centers that are NOT right next to wine country, where access isn't so readily available: Toronto, London, Ottawa, Kingston, Kitchener? Tell me the reasoning why one of the next Boutiques is opening up in Belleville (20 minutes away from Prince Edward County) - the answer is obvious, to compete with the wineries.

As for the LCBO having the "largest variety of wines and beers in the world" - I suspect you have not been to a Premier Liquor in Buffalo or a Total Wine in Florida ... these guys double or triple what the LCBO carries, because they don't have to feed 600+ stores. There are stores in Calgary and Edmonton that dwarf the LCBO's selection. I will grant you that I enjoy being able to walk into any LCBO store and know that the wine I am looking for is there because it is on the General List; but I have been into smaller liquor stores in the US (eg. Champane Cellars in Michigan) that has more variety and more selection on their shelves ... and also more local wines (ie: from the US) than the LCBO carries; the LCBO is 80-90% foreign wine; if you had a store in France or Italy that did that it would be a specialty store, not a government run one.

Again, sorry to lose you as a subscriber but I will not soften my stance on the LCBO ... allow me to also say this, there is a way that we could expand selection, run a privatized system along with the LCBO (see British Columbia) - but neither the LCBO nor the Liberals want to even consider such a thing.

Feedback from Newsletter #218 ...

By far one of my most popular articles for feedback over the past few months was the one right before Chirstmas break, when I posed a few questions to think about over the holidays and some of you really did. Like Brian P., who picked two topics out of the 5 to voice his opinion on:

“Can I trust the LCBO sales staff???

In terms of picking a wine for you at the store, I don't think they are doing a good enough job. With the $millions they rake in and the salaries/benefits that they pay staff, I am not convinced that they are doing enough to train their staff. My guess is that with recent cut-backs they are hiring more casual staff and not giving them the training that perhaps used to be more widespread a few years ago. It has been my experience that, like choosing a wine critic whose tastes approximate your own, you develop a relationship with an LCBO staff member who has given you good recommendations at your local store.

What Bottle of Sparkling Wine Goes Best with New Year’s?

I will have to go with Hinterland Ancestral Sparkling gamay @ $25 a bottle. Jonas Newman and Vicki Samaras have a real winner here with this unique varietal for sparkling wine. I first tried it last January at The Cove Resort and Inn in Westport when Norman Hardie brought it up for a wine supper we did with him. Most of us were blown away with the excellent wine which had a different but pleasing variety of flavours that go well with a wide range of foods, or, as we did, have it with dessert. In our case, Chef Joanne Edwards made Passion Fruit Pastry with Creme Anglaise, Crushed Sponge Toffee and Chocolate Sauce. Beautiful complementary flavours and palate cleansing between bites to taste it fresh all over again!

Brian P.”

I also got a double shot of Johns when it came to the LCBO question ...

“Can I trust the LCBO sales staff???
An organization which uses the Hype Queen aka Natalie McLean, with her bogus and /or stolen High Ratings, to sell wines is not only suspect, but, I suspect, corrupt. Nuf said.

John”

“Can I trust the LCBO sales staff???
Michael, I do not trust the LCBO sales staff beyond asking them to help me find a product on the shelf. (Have you ever learned the order of products on the shelves?)

And I certainly do not trust anything I see advertised in Food & Drink or Vintages magazine. I subscribe to your newsletter and others because I want the opinion of someone not paid by the LCBO or not paying the LCBO to promote their product.

I do trust sales people in other situations. I would not hesitate to take a waiter's recommendation in a restaurant for example.

I just don't think the LCBO has my best interest in mind when they tell me to by something.

John M.”

Also from 218, Kevin M. decided to answer a question not even posed and in the process made a good point. I had made an off-handed comment about Montreal Smoked meat and here’s what Kevin had to say:

“My Dad used to go to Ben's Deli on the corner of Metcalfe & De Maisonneuve in Montreal in the 50's and turned me onto Montreal style smoked meat. I started frequenting Ben's in the late 70's and kept going until it closed in 2006. I agree, there is no filling that equals Montreal style smoked meat, but mine is never on a cracker ... always on rye, and never more than a few inches away from a jar of mustard! So I am not a fillings kinda guy or a bread bread kinda guy ... I am a "Meritage" of bread and filling kinda guy!
Kevin M.”

Feedback from Newsletter #219 …

In 219 I gave us all permission to like Ontario wines, citing a rather un-scientific, yet probative study of our neighbours to the south and examples of my own experiences over the border carting Ontario wines to events; reader Gaye had this to say:

“I often take Ontario wine especially Chardonnay to friends in Florida ... especially some wine sellers, but I also like to take our amazing craft beer. And it is so hard to decide because of the limits.
Gaye D.”

Feedback from Newsletter #221 …

Bob tells us about his experience with LCBO staff and they’re lack of knowledge, he also gives us a from-the-horse’s-mouth reason why:

“Once again your point is very well taken. But the LCBO, with the sometimes exception of Vintages, is only interested in providing a point for distribution.

An LCBO manager, who was also acting area manager, once said that the staff only needed to know the price, what the wine was made from (varietals) and what should be paired (broadly speaking) with it. Anything else was a waste of time and needlessly removed the staff from the floor.

As education and sales go hand in hand, the action of selling is not part of the exercise.”

I’d like to thank all of you for your thoughtful and articulate comments and feedback they are always much appreciated (even the wrong-minded ones) – and even if I don’t respond fully (as I did with Michael W) I read every single one and either nod (or shake) my head silently sitting in front of the computer screen. But no matter what the comments you give this humble writer (sometimes not too much so) something to think about – and obviously, something to talk about (cue the Bonnie Raitt song).

Grape Guy’s Picks of the Bunch: Check out the Amazing Chardonnay + 4 more

Chateau des Charmes 2011 Chardonnay, Barrel Fermented - $16.95 (W, L)
www.chateaudescharmes.com
I have to admit that I’m a fan of the Chateau’s Barrel Fermented Chardonnays of the past – the 2010 and the 2007 were among some of my favourites. The 2011 is another in a long line of delicious, approachable Chardonnays in this range at a price that’s hard to believe for a wine of this quality. Aromas of honey and butter with nectarine and dried apricots … I love a Chard where you get both fruit and barrel elements and this one delivers: vanilla cream on the palate with butterscotch and baked apple all balanced with a good hit of acidity. Price: $13.95 – Rating: ****

Hubbs Creeks 2010 Pinot Noir, unfiltered - $28.95 (W)
www.hubbscreekvineyard.ca
I always think a Burgundian winemaker rolls over in his grave every time somebody puts Pinot Noir into American oak. Granted this wine also saw French and Hungarian, but American? Sacre bleu. But with this one it works – nose is delightfully red berry in the vein of strawberry and cherry and that follows onto the palate with cran-cherry, good mineral, with the right amount of tannins and acidity and some nicely spiced elements on the long finish. Price: $28.95 – Rating: ****+

KEW Vineyards 2012 Marsanne Viognier - $18.95 (W)
www.kewvineyards.com
In all honesty this wine should be called a “Marsanne Roussanne Viognier”, but VQA doesn’t recognize the Roussanne grape and thus it can’t appear on the label (what a bunch of bureaucratic nonsense) but this wine is equal parts all three grapes and is a first for Ontario. All are young vines to the historic KEW Vineyard itself (est. 1975) none more than 6 years old; but the winery itself is quite young too (opened end of 2013). There are plenty of tropical notes here both nose and palate along with aromas of kiwi, apricot and pear. On the palate those fruits all show themselves and add anise and baking spice to the finish. It’s really a very confusing wine – but in the best way possible. Price: $18.95 – Rating: ****+

Lailey 2011 Petit Verdot - $30.00 (W)
www.laileyvineyard.com
There was a time when if you saw something other than the big 3 on a label of Ontario wine you’d scratch your head in wonderment; but since Syrah crept into the market the breadth of grape varieties we attempt here in Ontario does not surprise me anymore. Here’s a limited production Petit Verdot made from 3 year year old vines and from which only 2 barrels were produced. Nose has floral, blueberry and white pepper; while on the palate the floral continues along with spicier blueberry and balanced off nicely with its natural acidity. If you are not able to put your hands on this year’s version the 2012 is shaping up even better. Price: $30.00 – Rating: ****

Leaning Post 2012 Chardonnay - $35.00 (W)
www.leaningpostwines.com
Ilya (winemaker) and Nadia (wife) want to be known for their Pinot Noirs and Chardonnay – that’s a tall order here in Ontario considering they have a lot of company in that regard in Pinot/Chard rich Ontario … but after trying this Chardonnay I would have to say they are well on their way to completing half of their goal. This wine spent its whole 13-months-in-barrel lifecycle on lees with no stirring – this has given the wine a certain ‘je-ne-said-quoi’ aspect … Nose is buttery with cinnamon, vanilla and pineapple puree notes; palate is buttery with vanilla creaminess which comes off as delicate and delicious. Touches of spice keep it honest and there’s also an element of apple sauce that comes through, then of course there’s the finish that lingers an extra-long time … and I say let it. Only 175 case produced. Price: $35.00 – Rating: **** ½

Southbrook 2008 Winemakers’ Red, Whimsy! - $34.95 (W)
www.southbrook.com
The story behind this wine goes something like this: 3 winemakers got together to pick the best of 5 blends, in the end 2 were selected, massaged and voila! a new whimsical story for a Whimsy! wine. A blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with 26% Cabernet Franc added. The nose is full of cedary-raspberry notes, while the palate plays off the cedar adding raspberry, cranberry and cracked black pepper with that cedar kicking around in the background. The finish continues with vanilla, cranberry and yes, cedar. Its’ quite tasty … especially is cedar is your thing. Price: $34.95 – Rating: ****

Availability legend: W (Winery) – L (LCBO/Vintages) – OL (On-Line).

Bi-Weekly OWR Updates: Wine Videos, Blog Additions and more

The Weekly Wine Videos
Just as the name suggest … every week I'll introduce you to another fabulous Ontario wine that you've just gotta try – Check out the YouTube Channel Now

Sparkling Wine Week
Video #57 – Union 2007 Forte
Video #58 – Stratus 2011 WildAss Red

NEW – Quench By Tidings … #Wine Wednesday (see them all here)
Amarone 2010: Fresher and Crisper
One More Look Back at the Veneto

On the Road with the Grape Guy
(Trips, tours and tastings – join me as I review the highs, and sometimes, the lows)
Anteprima Amarone 2010, Day 5
Anteprima Amarone 2010, Day 4
Anteprima Amarone 2010, Day 3
Anteprima Amarone 2010, Day 2
Anteprima Amarone 2010, Day/Night 1

Lost and Found (blog):
(Wines that got "lost" in my cellar - some are Treasures others Trash … Find out what happened)
Nothing New This Week

Taste it Again Grape Guy (blog)
Find out what has happened to some of my favourites over the years
Nothing New This Week

What I’m Drinking Tonight (blog)
When it’s not an Ontario wine, here’s what I’m pulling out of the cellar
New Posts Added

Vintages Release (blog)
January 18, 2014 – Vintages Release Report
February 1, 2014 – Vintages Release Report

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Wine Event Spotlight: Winter is Most Definitely Here

It's a winter wonderland out there so get out there and tour the wine region of you choice to stay warm and toasty.

OntarioWineReview’s bi-weekly newsletter is devoted to the love, enjoyment and promotion of the wines of Ontario and the wineries that make them.

What can the Grape Guy do for you … Michael Pinkus (Grape Guy) provides a variety of wine related services that you might be interested in taking advantage of: he gives lectures, leads seminars, conducts tastings, sets up tours; consults, selects and judges. He also gives interviews, broadcasts, podcasts and writes. Contact the Grape Guy if you require any of these services or have any questions.

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