On the Road with the Grape Guy
Nizza - Report 1: Vinchio Vaglio
18 Aug 2025- Details
- Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy
Decided to spend my birthday week of 2024 in Italy, in the cradle of Barbera ... Nizza Monferrato ... exploring the wines, the vineyards and the people who make these incredible expressions of Barbera in its purest form. Over the course of 4 days, I tasted my way through a number of Piedmontese wines - focusing in on what many have called a "simple wine" ... only to discover, it is far from that. This is my first of five reports:
Vinchio Vaglio
First I would like to send out a hello and thank you to my amazing host on this trip, Tessa Donnadieu, Export Manager of Vinchio Vaglio, who arranged my visits, trips and, at times, chauffeured me around. This could not have been done without your help.
The Cantina Cooperativa Vinchio Vaglio was founded in 1959 by 19 members who took part in the construction of the building that still houses the winery. Today, there are about 200 members, owning of almost 500 hectares of vineyards
Nizza Monferrato is one of the best areas for the growth of Barbera grapevines. It is a small, very old town, which used to be called “Nizza of the straw” during the late Middle Ages. Nowadays it is an important centre of agriculture and business. That unbreakable bond between the town and Barbera is reflected in the label “Nizza” DOCG - using exclusively Barbera grapes from a very narrow area around the villages of Vinchio and Vaglio Serra.
The hills around Nizza Monferrato are clay and calcareous soils (white soils) creating highly fruity wines thanks to the presence of calcium in the soil, and helps deliver a good bouquet, while clay gives structure and a remarkable longevity.
Nizza is obtained from pure Barbera grapes, with a minimum ageing of 18 months, of which at least 6 in wooden barrels, while Nizza Riserva DOCG is obtained with a minimum of 30 months of ageing, of which at least 12 in wood.
The Wines ... 
2019 Gajera (Pinot Noir)
Spicy with nice fruit. Besides the colour, it would be hard to distinguish this as Pinot. Made in stainless tanks and 20 months in oak for aging, 70% new. (***+) ... 6000 bottles
2023 La Martana (Freisa)
Stainless and Cement - the second fermentation gives it a little fizz. Plenty of fresh fruit, red cherry and raspberry, maybe a hint of strawberry, with good acidity. A summer beverage that could be served cold and fresh. Simple but fun. Easy drinking. (*** ½) ... 6000 bottles
2023 Le Nocche (Grignolino)
Very Piedmontese: big on acidity, light in colour, spiced-strawberry, serve chilled, tamed the tannins. This grape is difficult to work with, and is only fermented and aged in cement; it can go reductive quick - so maintaining the oxygen level is important. (*** ½) ... 10,000 bottles
2023 Sori dei Mori - Barbera D'Asti (Barbera)
Friendly and floral notes, easy, fresh, light; there's a subtle spice with good acidity. Graphite and red fruits; nice structure - produced using all stainless steel. (*** ½+) ... 100,000 bottles
2022 I Tre Vescovi - Barbera d'Asti Superiore (Barbera)
One year large barrel ageing; dark fruit and floral, graphite and herbs, nice acidity, well balanced - long finish ... this one bites back. (****) ... 200,000 bottles
2021 Laudana (Bricco) - Nizza (Barbera)
18 months / 6 min oak (by law) - grown in sand, clay, and limestone with calcium in the soil. 60-year-old vines - wine spends one year in only large oak casks: powerful nose, but the palate shows much more restraint; finish is relatively quick, but the wine feels elegant and delicate. (****) ... 10,000 bottles
2020 Vigne Vecchie - Barbera D'Asti Superiore (Barbera)
Original part of the old vines project - (started in 1987): minimum 50-year-old vines ... barrel 50% new / 25% 2nd / 25% 3rd in barrique. 2-years in bottle. Licorice root, spice, blackberry, cassis, acidity is profound, violets perfume the nose. There is a fight back quality to this wine: not happy to just be around in a glass, it wants to pick a fight. (****) ... 9000 bottles
2020 La Furnera (Albarossa)
3 hectares in total over 5 vineyards. First vintage in 2016 - and not made every year. This is a nice fruit-driven wine. It's not terribly exciting, nor is there anything that detracts - it's serviceable and tasty. I could drink a bunch because Albarossa interests me, and this is a good one. FYI: Albarossa is a cross between Nebbiolo and Barbera. (****) ... 4000 bottles
2022 Vigne Vecchie 50 - Barbera D'Asti (Barbera) 
In stainless 1 year then 1 year in bottle. 50+ year old vines and it was made to celebrate 50 years of the winery ... Dark fruit nose, develops spice on the palate, the alcohol has a presence on the nose as well; but the palate hides it well with a mix of good acidity and fruit driven notes: elegant and complex. (****+) ... 20,000 bottles
2019 Sei Vigne Insynthesis - Nizza Riserva (Barbera) - (see video review)
30 months from vintage date with a 12 month minimum in oak (by law) - first Nizza Riserva from this winery. It's a potentially 6 vineyard blend / with a minimum of three needing to show up to create this wine. This year 3 vineyards made the grade, and thus the blend. 100% new barrels. 14 months of aging. And vines on average, 60 years old vines. Meaty, smoky, chocolatey, dark fruited, with interesting notes of tobacco and bacon: complex - this wine is on another level. (**** ½) ... 4000 bottles
