On the Road with the Grape Guy

Nizza - Report 2: La Gironda

03 Sep 2025

 Gironda 1a

Decided to spend my birthday week of 2024 in Italy, in the cradle of Barbera ... Nizza Monferrato ... exploring the wines, the vineyards and the people who make these incredible expressions of Barbera in its purest form. Over the course of 4 days, I tasted my way through a number of Piedmontese wines - focusing in on what many have called a "simple wine" ... only to discover, it is far from that. This is my second of five reports (miss the first, check it out here):

La Gironda

Gironda 6aVisited on one of the foggiest days of my visit in eaarly-December. Piedmont is known for its fog (nebbia) so much so that the signature grape of the region is named after it (Nebbiolo). This was one of my favourite stops in my week of in-depth Nizza instruction. Meeting Susanna Galandrino, learning about her family, the passion and tasting the wines they produce. I was simply blown away by what Nizza could be, and is. I was also impressed with some of the older versions of this wine.

 

 

THE WINES ...

2017 Galandrino - Brut (Chardonnay 60% / Pinot Noir 40%) Gironda 3a
A classic method bubble, disgorged in 2024. That's 60-plus months on lees. This Chardonnay sees 6 months in barrel before all of that. It's a lovely bubble with yeasty, nutty, mushroom, bosc pear and apple skin notes.  (**** ½)

2019 Ago - Nizza Riserva (Barbera)
Named after her father, Agostino - Ago means compass, and he is their North Star pointing them in the right direction).    This Barbera is partially fermented in barrel, then aged for 2 years in oak mostly new (60%), then spends another 2 years in bottle. This wine is only made in good vintages and the grapes come from the same Bricco they use for their Nizza, but the grapes come from the higher area. Plenty of fruit and acidity: lovely mouthfeel, dark and fruit forward with subtle spice, cherry, and strawberry - this one is ageable and food friendly.  (**** ½)

Gironda 5a2021 Le Nicchie - Nizza (Barbera)
The 'nicche' in Italian or English is much the same, though has a double meaning in Italian: niche / cellar. It's Barbera that spends 1 year in barrel of three different sizes - blended then bottled for 1 year before release. And what a pretty wine this is, from nose to palate, this has a spice on the mid-palate, with a nose of blackberry and black cherry; opens easily and is so drinkable (the grapes are grown on 'Bricco de Nizza', but they cannot call it that yet, officially).  (****+)

2022 La Gena - Barbera d'Asti Superiore (Barbera)
Wine spends a minimum of 6 months in oak (by law), then 8-10 months at winery in bottle. Rich and dark fruited, with spicy-cherry, good acidity and medium-length finish.  (*** ½+)

2024 Moscato d'Asti (Moscato)
My guilty pleasure comes to roost with this fresh, fruity, peachy, and lively sweetie ... so quaffable.  (*** ½+)

2023 La Lippa - Barbera d'Asti (Barbera)
These younger vines are made and aged in stainless steel. It's light and easy drinking, with fresh fruit and good acidity.  (*** ½)
                    

FROM THE CELLAR ... Gironda 4a

2013 Le Nicchie - Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza (Barbera)
Barbera from the year before Nizza became an appellation. Problems: too hot / no diurnal temperature during the season. Fruit is dried, but very spicy, tannins are quite aggressive.  (not for sale)

2003 Le Nicchie - Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza (Barbera)
Barbera    that's not even a DOC at the time. Lots of colour and dried fruit, with spice. The acidity is good and the wine is very much alive.  (not for sale)

2001 Le Nicchie - Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza (Barbera)
Barbera    really shows its age in this 23 year old offering. The acidity is super jumpy, with notes of licorice and spice.  (not for sale)

 

 

 

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