05
Apr
2023
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Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy
(November 2022) … This historic winery brought its winemaker, Marcus Notaro, and five of their wines along for dinner at Epoch restaurant in Toronto. An intimate November affair in front of a roaring fire in a quiet room, where the noise of the world was shut out by the doors of the side-room that staged the event.
We started with a barely room temperature, Hands of Time Chardonnay and moved to a slightly cooler and more approachable, if not very Californian and "graceful" Chardonnay, called “Karia”. Then we were blessed with three reds, two current vintage Cabernets, and then a back vintage of one of the same wines.
My tasting notes are below, but first a little about Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. It's estate vineyard is 100 acres, growing 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and only 4% Cabernet Franc – so obviously this winery in Napa knows where it's bread is buttered. The other two vineyards are a 50-acre plot in Calistoga and a 70-acre plot in Napa - here again, the vineyards are planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc - although numbers weren't given. Their whites come from a 40-acre plot that's planted to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The winery was established in 1970. There was to be a celebration of their 50th anniversary, but something happened in 2020 to stop all that ... I will not mention it here.
Quote of the Night ...
Winemaker Marcus Notaro, while discussing the price of wine, versus whether or not they are worth their price: "The wines damn well better deliver.”
The good news is … they did.
The Wines ...
2020 Hands of Time Chardonnay
Everyone talked about the fruit here and how the neutral oak for 8 months helped shepherd the wine along. This is de-classified Karia fruit (their top end Chardonnay); but in truth, the warmth of the wine did little to make it shine: nectarine and peach joined hints of spice – to make it drinkable and tasty. But this wine definitely needed a little more chill to make it really sing. (*** 1/2+)
2019 Karia, Napa Valley Chardonnay 
The chill here was perfect and brought out so many of this white's cool temperature loving characteristics. “Karia” is Greek for graceful and that's just what this wine was: super-pleasant from beginning to end. Rich, smoky, oaky, but with a fruit core, that doles out salinity and good acidity; vanilla and some butterscotch also join the show. The wine is made in what Marcus called “a less intervention style”. Only 9 months in barrel, 34% new, all French, with 8% going into stainless steel to retain a modicum of freshness. There's also 0.5% Muscat Canelli that sneaks in - just enough to give it a floral aspect. (****+)
2019 Hands of Time, Napa Valley Red Blend
Not really a field blend, as only Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc are grown, but the Hands sees 85% Cabernet Sauvignon meet with 15% Merlot (purchased fruit) ... The interesting part is that this wine pays tribute to the winemakers that have gone through the winery over the past years. And while considered a "second wine"; there are years that this wine is in more limited supply than one of their flagship bearer’s: Artemis. Smoky-dark fruit and blueberry skin on the finish, while the palate is fruit-forward and very tasty. Silky tannins help shape this wine into a real winter. (****)
2019 Artemis, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 
Marcus (winemaker) describes 2019 as a "challenging, but good. Vintage" overall. The wine has a drop (.5%) of Cabernet Franc and the blend spends 15 months in oak, 42%, new French and 6% new American, all the rest is in older French. The fruit is pure and robust: plum, black cherry, blackberry with notes of chocolate, white smoke and silky tannins. Through the evening, the wine opened and became even more silky and ultimately gorgeous for both sipping and sniffing – the grilled beef fillet was not let down by the wine, nor vice versa. Purity of fruit and complexity makes this wine and the cellaring potential sits at about 15 plus years. (**** 1/2+)
Our last wine of the evening was the 2014 Artemis, which was smooth, silky and luxurious across the tongue ... Marcus described that vintage as "elegant" - but despite the elegance, there did seem to be a consensus around the table that the 2019 stole the show - it's challenges brought about a more complete, complex and ultimately delicious wine.
03
Apr
2023
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Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy
(November 2022) ... A few years ago I was doing this tasting in Montalcino, then Brunello broke with the rest of their Tuscan counterparts and decided to have their own event(s) – two as it turns out: one to showcase the Rosso wines and the other looks at their top tier wines, Brunello and Riserva.
Then someone came up with the next big idea: have these tastings simultaneously in the four biggest markets for Italian wines, thus Brunello Day was invented with tasting in Toronto, New York, London as well as back home in Montalcino – and all on the same day.
Over 100 wines were poured, in a very similar fashion to how they do it in Montalcino, with sommelier service and a list of wines to choose from.
The vintage in question was the 2018 – which has found some detractors in the wine world – but I have to admit, some of these wines showed a real elegance and plenty of fruit – not one usually says after a sub-par vintage. In fact, some of the fruit found in the 2018 rose above some that I found in much stronger vintages of the past.
I used my usual Good / Better / Best approach, which I use for young and unfinished wines at Anteprimas – and I must say that with eight-plus wines receiving “best” accolades in this report, it might just be one of the most enjoyable tasting of Brunello I have ever been to. So watch the 2018 Brunellos, they will surprise – and here are the ones I found most pleasing (some also have notes)
The Wines …
(The Riservas)
Col D'Orcia 2015 Brunello di Montalcino - Poggio al Vento … Best
Banfi 2017 Brunello di Montalcino - Poggio alle Mura Riserva … Best
Sesti 2017 Brunello di Montalcino – Phenomena
More of that red fruit, cherry bomb and red jolly rancher; elegant and supple … Best
Capanna 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
There’s a little VA getting in the way here - woodsy, smoky, earthy notes dominate; fruit is sidling up to the barn door ready to appear … Better
Capineto 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva … Better
Pinino 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva … Better
Caparzo 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva … Good
Tenuta Corte Pavone 2017 Brunello di Montalcino - Poggio Molino al Vento Vineyard … Good
(Annattas)
Banfi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino – Marrucheto 
So much fruit and elegance, just a stupendous drop (video I have) – lovely concentration and just a lot going on … Best
Fattoria dei Barbi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Del Fiore Vineyard
Just pure elegance in the glass … Best
Pian delle Vigne 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Nice fruit-forward nature, smoky but lively, with all the red currants, cranberry, and acidity making for a delicious drop … Best
San Polo 2018 Brunello di Montalcino – Podernovi
Yum - graceful, elegant and smooth - lots of dark fruit and smoke; lush and lovely … Best
Sesti 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Red fruit kicks things off and does not let go: red currants, sour cherry, strawberry pith and raspberry … Best
Tassi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Colombaiolo Vineyard
Lots of rich red fruit - tasty and easy - there is a seam of oak and acidity that balances the wine; it has a yum factor that can’t be denied … Best
Tassi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino – Franoi
Touch more linear than the above, but still full-fruited and full-bodied, lots of deliciousness with all that lovely red fruit … Best
Val di Suga 2018 Brunello di Montalcino 
Pretty cherry blossom and other floral componenets, subtle smoke and mocha, good tannin structure, well-balanced; so pretty and elegant … Best
Altesino 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Smooth and supple - red berry fruit galore, red licorice, good acid punch on the finish … Better
Banfi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Poggio alle Mura
Lots and lots of red fruit plus red licorice and balancing acidity … Better
Carpineto 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
A real elegant style of black fruit, mocha, cherry, blackberry, cassis and cedar … Better
Col D'Orcia 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Nice earthy component with smoked-cherry, blackberry, cassis, forest floor and even some distinct pine notes … Better
Collemattoni 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Plush and lush, pretty with violets and other floral notes plus dark fruit and spice … Better
Corte dei Venti 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Pleasant and elegant - very pure with fruit and spice notes throughout … Better
Fattoria dei Barbi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
So lovely; red cherry and other bright fruits all baring up with good concentration … Better
La Fortuna 2018 Brunello di Montalcino 
Light, but with a juicy core that shows off a little black fruit, all with big acidity … Better
Pinino 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Lively, jazzy but with a restraint on the acidity - juicy and elegant - drink now … Better
Poggio Antico 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Nice and elegant: cherry, strawberry, blackberry, cassis - hints of cedar and a touch of balsamic … Better
Talenti 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Mocha, coffee, maple-wood-bark all can be found on the nose; good acidity with notes of sour cherry on the finish … Better
Tenuta Corte Pavone 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Campo Marzio … Better
Tenuta Fanti 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Good concentration with darker berry fruit and mocha plushness … Better
Tenuta Poggio Il Castellare 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Licorice and mint, blackberry, smoke and black cherry … Better
Ucceliera 2018 Brunello di Montalcino
Some VA character on the nose, but there is no doubt that this is Brunello through and through - acid / tannin / harsh / but it will come around … Better
Val di Suga 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Del Lago Vineyard
Another good wine from Val di Suga: lots of sour cherry, mocha, licorice and earthy character … Better
Val di Suga 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Poggio al Granchio
Smooth and round, silky tannins, with a dark fruit core … Better
Altesino 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Montosoli Vineyard … Good
Banfi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Castello Banfi … Good
Capanna 2018 Brunello di Montalcino … Good 
Caparzo 2018 Brunello di Montalcino … Good
Caparzo 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - La Casa Vineyard … Good
Fattoi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino … Good
La Fiorita 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Fiore di No … Good
Poggio di Sotto 2018 Brunello di Montalcino … Good
Ruffino 2018 Brunello di Montalcino … Good
San Polo 2018 Brunello di Montalcino – Vignavecchia … Good
Talenti 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Piero … Good
Tassi 2018 Brunello di Montalcino … Good
Tenuta Corte Pavone 2018 Brunello di Montalcino … Good
Tenuta Corte Pavone 2018 Brunello di Montalcino - Fiore del Vento … Good
