Michael Pinkus Wine Review - On the Road with the Grape Guy

Montefalco Sagrantino (April 2023)

07 Dec 2023

Details: Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy

(April 2023) … Sagrantino continues to be an under-appreciated wine in the Pantheon of Italian icon wines. Tuscany, Piedmont, Veneto – all have a status wine: Brunello, Barolo, Amarone, yet Sagrantino remains buried in a mire of head-scratching and oblivion. It's a difficult hole to climb out of, but with time, and dedication, Sagrantino and the winemakers that toil with this grape might do it.

The use of less wood is a good first step: bigger barrels, less wood to juice ratio helps to create a more approachable wine, sooner. The tannins of Sagrantino have always been its selling feature and its downfall – not everyone wants to wait 30 years for a wine to be drinkable, we don't all have that kind of time.

Within the two categories of wines tasted (older vintage – current / coming vintage), the ratio of wine's scored to wines left behind was very high 83% and 79% respectively - granted, the second number is for the 2019s which, in truth, they still have time on their side. But the first number are wines from 2014 - 2018 and it shows they are wines drinking well now, as well as their future possibility.

What needs to be said is that Sagrantino is poised to make a statement ... The opening act (Rosso) has taken the stage and will soon give way to the star of the show (Montefalco Sagrantino) - let's just hope it doesn't take too long for the star to speak up.

Below is a list of the Sagrantino wine's tried, broken down into two. List two, are the "older" vintages, list one are the new 2019 Vintage wines. There's an amazing array of skill and intrigue on both lists. Put your hands on a bottle when you can. These wines are well worth the time and effort, especially the more modern versions, which when given 5 years (not the usual 20 to 30) will be gems ... Still ageable, but much more approachable and earlier.

Anteprima Wines – 2019 Sagrantino

Antonelli 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
--The tannins and fruit fight it out to a lovely finish ... (Best)

Arnaldo Caprai 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Collepiano
-- Lively lush fruit with mocha-cherry, coffee bean and leather plus tannins that kick in on the finish ... (Best)

Tenute Baldo 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Preda del falco
-- Lots of fruit shines through here ... (Best)

Arnaldo Caprai 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - 25 Anni ... (Better)
Bocale 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Better)
Moretti Omero 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Better)
Tabarrini 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Campo alla Cerqua ... (Better)
Tenute Lunelli - Tenuta Castelbuono 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Carapace ... (Better)
Arnaldo Caprai 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Valdimaggio ... (Better)

Agricola Mevante 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)
Colle Ciocco 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)
Montioni 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Magia ... (Good)
Moretti Omero 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Vignalunga ... (Good)
Tabarrini 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Il Bisbetico Domato ... (Good)
Terre di San Felice 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)

Lugarotti 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (OK)
Tabarrini 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Colle Grimaldesco ... (OK)
Tabarrini 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Colle alle Macchie ... (OK)
Valdangius 2019 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Fortunato ... (OK)

Sagrantino Older Wine: 2014 – 2018

Dionigi 2014 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Better)
Tenuta Bellafonte 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Collenottolo ... (Better)
Valdangius 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Fortunato ... (Better)
Tenbuta di Saragano 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Saragano ... (Better)
Terre de' Trinci 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Ugolino ... (Better)
Benedetti & Grigi 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Dioniso ... (Better)
Colle Mora 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Il Bove ... (Better)
Colle Ciocco 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Better)
Moretti Omero 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Better)
La Fonte 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Collepoppo ... (Better)

Fattoria Colsanto 2015 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)
Le Cimate 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)
Perticaia 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)
Tenute Lunelli - Tenuta Castelbuono 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Lunga Attesa ... (Good)
Cocco Ilaria 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Phonsano ... (Good)
Luca di Tomaso 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)
Agricola Mevante 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)
Bocale 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)
La Veneranda 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (Good)
Le Thadee 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Carlo Re ... (Good)
Terre de la Custodia 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Maior ... (Good)

Fattoria Colsanto 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (OK)
Fongoli 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (OK)
Tudernum 2016 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Fidenzo ... (OK)
Antonelli 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (OK)
Di Filippo 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (OK)
Romanelli 2017 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Terra Cupa ... (OK)
Goretti - Fattoria Le Mura Saracene 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (OK)
Terre di San Felice 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG ... (OK)
Tabarrini 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Colle Grimaldesco ... (OK)
Tenute Baldo 2018 Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG - Preda del Falco ... (OK)

Montefalco White Wines (April 2023)

27 Nov 2023

Details: Category: On the Road with the Grape Guy

Trebbiano Spoletino DOC & Superiore

I was once told (by a fellow writer) that Spoleto was a gem - but it was said with a wink, so I was not sure how to take the comment. Now I know, that writer meant it as a compliment. Trebbiano Spoletino is like no other Trebbiano out there on the market; and the more producers in the region get to play with it, the better it becomes. There are some great up-and-coming Spoletino producers coming along and they in-turn are learning how to get the most out of this indigenous grape. It's exciting to see the fruit shining through and the acidity, offering up both punch and balance to these wines. High praise indeed, my only caveat is when it comes to the use of oak: dial it back – this has potential to be such a great wine, something that screams summer, refreshment and finesse. Spoletino is best consumed, fresh, young and vibrant, not everything needs an oak barrel to make it better.

24 wines were tasted in this category, 16 made my list, that's a 2/3 ratio, and just under half get a better-to-best rating. Keep up the amazing strides with this grape. It's thrilling to see and taste.

Bocale 2022 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC Treb Spoletino
-- Fresh and lively with beautiful grapefruit notes - seems like Sauvignon Blanc – but also has nectarine, peach, pineapple and mango - great job ... (Best)

Benedette & Grigi 2020 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Ermes ... (Better)
Colle Mora 2021 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Bagnolo ... (Better)
Colle Uncinano 2022 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino Superiore DOC ... (Better)
Ninni 2021 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Poggio del Vescovo ... (Better)
Pardi 2021 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Spoletino ... (Better)
Perticaia 2022 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC ... (Better)

Colle Ciocco 2021 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Tempestivo ... (Good)
Colle Uncinano 2022 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - La Pettinata ... (Good)
De Conti 2022 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Rovicciano ... (Good)
Terre di San Felice 2022 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC ... (Good)
Valdangius 2020 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Filium ... (Good)

Antonelli 2021 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Treblium ... (OK)
Cocco Ilaria 2021 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Avventata ... (OK)
Pardi 2022 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC ... (OK)
Valdangius 2021 Spoleto Trebbiano Spoletino DOC - Campo de' Pico ... (OK)

Grechetto DOC

My fascination with Grechetto ended a long time ago; these days I equate it with boring white wine - kind of in the same basket as Pinot Grigio. I tasted 11 wines with eight making the cut, but only one wine I considered as better, and it was during this tasting I created a lower category than good ... Okay, indicating a wine that didn't tickle my spirit or my fancy, but would be okay to drink.

Adanti 2022 Montefalco Grechetto ... (Better)

Antonelli 2022 Montefalco Grechetto ... (Good)
Benedetti & Grigi 2021 - Eros - Montefalco Grechetto ... (Good)

Arnaldo Caprai 2022 Montefalco Grechetto ... (OK)
Colle Ciocco 2022 - Clarignano - Montefalco Grechetto ... (OK)
Scacciadiavoli 2022 Montefalco Grechetto ... (OK)
Dionigi 2021 - Vigna del Brillo - Montefalco Grechetto ... (OK)
Tenuta di Saragano 2021 - Montacchiello - Montefalco Grechetto ... (OK)

Montefalco Bianco DOC

For as uninteresting I find Grechetto, Bianco are next level boring. This seems like a dumping ground for grapes not destined for Spoletino or Grechetto. It’s straight up white wine, with little in the way of having a personality. They are like tadpoles, waiting to grow up and become full-fledged frogs. For the most part, these are drink now wines, with little in the way of ageability or ability to hold interest. Think unoaked Chardonnay, without the benefit of the lees: they'll get the job done, but don't expect much. Nine wines were tasted in this category, seven made the ranking, but nothing rose above good.

Arnaldo Caprai 2022 Montefalco Bianco
(60 Trebbiano / 40 Chardonnay) ... Good
Scacciadiavoli 2021 Montefalco Bianco
(50 Trebbiano / 30 Grechetto / 20 Chardonnay) ... Good
Tenuta Bellafonte 2022 Montefalco Bianco - Sperella ... Good
Tenuta di Saragano 2021 Montefalco Bianco - Saragano
(70 Trebbiano / 30 Grechetto) ... Good
Terre de la Custodia 2020 Montefalco Bianco - Plentis
(60 Trebbiano / 40 Chardonnay) ... Good